Tuttaltro che Uggia




Description:
Long route ideal for beginners or for those still inexperienced on long routes. Degrees not too high and never too exposed, pleasant way with very comfortable stops.

Access:
from Chiavenna follow the SS36 towards Spluga for about 1km from the roundabout. Exactly at the end of the climb, take a narrow road on the right. The road leads to the crotti di Bette (loc.Barini), 150 meters after the curve to the right take the dirt road to the left. On foot, follow the path up to the left limit of the plates to which you climb. It is possible to leave the car in the ample parking on the ss36 and follow the signs on foot (10min from the parking at the entrance to the path + 10 min of comfortable path)

First Climb:
Marco Geronimi, Riccardo Lerda, Simone Manzi

Stuff:
Via bolted from below to spit ... possibility to integrate or try mobile protections (medium-small friend and nuts)

Descent:
Descent or recommended descent on foot continuing flat towards Uggia and from the bar of the road to Dalò following CAI path to the attack.

  • Crag: -
  • Level: 6a
  • Height: 400-700 / 420 m
  • Open Date: Aprile2013
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: south-southwest
  • Gear: From the bottom by Marco Geronimi, Riccardo Lerda
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.3236º
    E 9.3869º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.3223º
    E 9.3881º
  • Type: Plate predominantly supported by two vertical pulls
  • Note: La via Tuttaltro che Uggia é quella a sinistra di Navajos e a destra di Innanzitutto
  • Logistic: Quick and not tiring approach. Present many other routes on the structure (see Plates of Bette guide Valtellina Valchiavenna VSud)
  • Update: 08/06/2014
  • Reads: 19099

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  Add Pitch

N. Pitch Length Description Level Mandat.
1 L1 50 m Placca verticale su tacchette poi più appoggiata 5c/6a+ 5c
2 L2 45 m Partenza facile poi ripido spigolo su roccia supergranulosa 5a/5c 5a
3 L3 45 m Tettino appigliato poi placca appoggiata 3b/4b 4b
4 L4 20 m Tiro di raccordo verso sinistra. In origine risalita senza protezioni con un altro itinerario(troppo sporco) 3a 3a
5 L5 45 m Bella fessura poi placca appoggiata 5a/5c 5a
6 L6 35 m Placchetta appoggiata poi cengia (raccordo) 4a 4a
7 L7 35 m Spigolo appigliato poi placca appoggiata 5c/6a+ 6a
8 L8 15 m Muro verticale appigliato, difficile uscita in placca. 6b 6a
9 L9 40 m Placca su piccole prese 5b/6a 5b
10 L10 50 m Facile placca appoggiata in obliquo a destra. 2c 2c
11 L11 40 m Spigolo poi placca in obliquo a sinistra. 3a/4b 3a

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