Sussurri Dal Diedro




Description:
Imposing cliff overlooking the town of Chiavenna .... Unable to go unnoticed by any climber.

Access:
From Chiavenna follow direction Maloja, St. Moritz and at the end of the tree-lined avenue turn left onto the left towards Pianazzola (Strada after restaurant La Locanda Antica). When you reach the last hairpin bend (big rock on the right and the house on the left) continue for about 100 meters where there is a fountain and a parking lot where the path entrance is located. From here go up immediately following a trail on the terracing taking as initial reference the big boulders and following the numerous little men of stone maintaining an oblique direction to the right. The attack is on the right edge of the structure to the left of another street (baby 2000).

First Climb:
Riccardo Lerda, Marco Geronimi, Andrea Cardini

Stuff:
Return and half ropes (at least 50 meters). Recommended medium friend (c4 0.5-2) possibly a micro.

Descent:
Double descent from the street. Last double off via perpendicular to the park above. You skip that in the middle of the dihedral.

  • Crag: -
  • Level: 6b obbl.
  • Height: 500-700 / 325 m
  • Open Date: 2013
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: East
  • Gear: Chiodata from below by Riccardo Lerda and Marco Geronimi
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.3275º
    E 9.3944º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.3266º
    E 9.3953º
  • Type: L1 6a: vertical wall then plaque; L2 6b: crosswise slat; L3 6c: plate then crosswise with reverse and final chisel, L4 6b traverse very nice then binding plate, L5 6a +: wall then plate to the right, L6 6b +: fissured fissure ... technical; L7 7a + Diedro always less cracked ... very technical, difficult to parked, L8 6b + series of slanting slanting right then exit on a large ledge to go up to the left, L9 6b + nice succession of cracks and plaque
  • Note: Presenti altre vie. Possibili riferimenti cercando Senc de Dalò. arrampicabile anche in giornate invernali relativamente calde.
  • Logistic: No particular problem. Recommended boots or trekking shoes for the absence of a real path. About 15-20 min from the car
  • Update: 04/10/2014
  • Reads: 28018

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  Add Pitch

N. Pitch Name Length Description Level Mandat.
1 L1 25 m Muro appigliato poi placca 5b/6a 5c
Gr. Note:
2 L2 Traverso 30 m Partenza dalla sosta impegnativa, qualche metro su roccia non bella poi comincia la via 5c/6b 6b
Gr. Note: Difficile uscita alla S3
3 L3 40 m Bellissima placca impegnativa poi travesino su rovesci e uscita in diedrino cieco 6a/6c 6a
Gr. Note: Allungare rinvio dopo obbliquo a sinistra, utile C4 0.75
4 L4 35 m Traverso molto bello sotto un tetto poi breve su strapiombo e uscita in placca 5a/6b 6a+
Gr. Note:
5 L5 45 m Partenza su belle prese poi placca in obliquo verso destra all'attacco del diedro 5c/6a+ 6a
Gr. Note:
6 L6 25 m Diedro fessurato...tecnico.Utili friend medi. 6b/6b+ 6b
Gr. Note:
7 L7 35 m Diedro sempre meno fessurato...molto tecnico. Difficile uscita in sosta. Ben chiodato. 6b/7a 6b+
Gr. Note: Possibile soluzione a destra(originale, meno difficile)oppure a sinistra possibile ma probabilmente più difficile.
8 L8 45 m Serie di fessure con uscita su grossa cengia da risalire in obliquo a sinistra 5c/6b+ 6a
Gr. Note: Tiro un pò muschiato e abbastanza aereo.Utile c4 1 o .75
9 L9 45 m Serie di fessure e placca In obbliquo a sinistra poi a destra verso una cengia con pianta. 5b/6b+ 6b+
Gr. Note: Come ultimo tiro è la ciliegina sulla torta....Buon viaggio

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