Presanella - Costone della Lancia The Trapezio, southern edge
Attack to the right of the initial plaque in A1 of the Via Sacchi [report available on the Vol. Presanella of the Guide of the Mountains of Italy CAI TCI]; after a first jump, go left onto a small terrace (pay attention to a slightly mobile rock) and traverse to the right on a wall until you find a splendid black dihedral that runs up to the edge (6b). Continue to the left of the line until you stop on a comfortable terrace (V + / 6a). Cross to the left on a very smooth wall (intersection with Via Sacchi) and climb over a large dihedral reassemble on a pylon lying down until the stop (6c). Still straight (spit) you reach the Via Sacchi for plaque and follow it up to the top (IV +). Access from the Segantini Refuge to the path of the 4 Cantoni Pass (1 hour). Note: from the second stop, the stupendous vertical crack at about half of the initial wall of the third pitch was also raised from below, with very high difficulties, a stop on a terrace at the exit.
Maco Cencetti, Lorella Matteini
On site, qc. tape or lanyard for stops
in a double rope
- Crag: -
- Level: 6 C, 6A OBBL.
- Height: 3-2800 / 200 m
- Open Date: 23 agosto 2013
Gear: From the bottom: Marco Cencetti-Lorella Matteini
Type: dihedral, wall, light overhanging
- Update: 28/09/2013
- Reads: 12051