Presanella - Costone della Lancia The Trapezio, southern edge

Section: trentino-alto adigetrentino-alto adige


Attack to the right of the initial plaque in A1 of the Via Sacchi [report available on the Vol. Presanella of the Guide of the Mountains of Italy CAI TCI]; after a first jump, go left onto a small terrace (pay attention to a slightly mobile rock) and traverse to the right on a wall until you find a splendid black dihedral that runs up to the edge (6b). Continue to the left of the line until you stop on a comfortable terrace (V + / 6a). Cross to the left on a very smooth wall (intersection with Via Sacchi) and climb over a large dihedral reassemble on a pylon lying down until the stop (6c). Still straight (spit) you reach the Via Sacchi for plaque and follow it up to the top (IV +). Access from the Segantini Refuge to the path of the 4 Cantoni Pass (1 hour). Note: from the second stop, the stupendous vertical crack at about half of the initial wall of the third pitch was also raised from below, with very high difficulties, a stop on a terrace at the exit.

First Climb:

Maco Cencetti, Lorella Matteini


On site, qc. tape or lanyard for stops


in a double rope

  • Crag: -
  • Level: 6 C, 6A OBBL.
  • Height: 3-2800 / 200 m
  • Open Date: 23 agosto 2013
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: East-southeast

  • Gear: From the bottom: Marco Cencetti-Lorella Matteini

  •    Latitude
    N 46.1846º
    E 10.7583º
  •    Latitude
    N 46.1842º
    E 10.7622º
  • Type: dihedral, wall, light overhanging

  • Update: 28/09/2013
  • Reads: 14199

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