Via Raggio di Luce -
Going up towards San Leo from the Pietracuta junction, after the first hairpin bends, on the right are the walls and piers of Pietramaura. One in particular for its elegant and slender line has always hit the sick of Heck's disease, that is those who in every stone see a line of ascent. Unfortunately, the rock betrays the expectations and only the modern nailing techniques, together with the passion and hard work of the inspector, have ensured that in this beautiful place were born a rock gym and three itineraries of different lengths. The very rough rock, with the exception of a few compact plates, is generally crumbly and its use only partially improves it.
From Rimini for the Provincial Marecchiese up to Pietracuta. Take a left to San Leo. At about 3 km from the Fort, already home despite its Conte Cagliostro, turn right to the village of Tausano. Go ahead on the white road, already visible on our walls. The car is left at a crossroads of rural roads (Biforca). Right down the road and past a grassy clearing track to the left with red mark up to the Gym. Next to the last single pitch: we are on the attack of the Diretta dello Spallone; still ahead for flat track up to a boulder with resin nail and tree. Here begins our ascent, the first high fix on the friable base.
only about 19 returns.
With great care: easy but exposed short climb to the shoulder below the summit (except the best insured experts). From here two possibilities: 1. to the west, a trail of flat path leading to the wooded saddle. Downhill to the south in the forest you return to the attack. 2. directly to the South West. Following mines and rock channels partly equipped with steel cables, for a logical trace until we entered the previous descent.
- Level: D+, 6a+, 6a obbligatorio
- Height: 550-650 / 150 m
- Open Date:
Gear: Opened by Eros Rossi who is applauded for the very beautiful way and for the research, in a land as greedy as Romagna.
Type: 1 ° Toss Overcoming the treacherous hoof arriving at the first nail. From here the wall, already vertical, straightens further. Scale the plate by exploiting the weakest points. Overcome a difficult overhanging belt. Reach an initially difficult crack, climb it and when it ends to the right to a solid rock gutter. Go back up and reach the ledge where you will stop on the right. 2 ° Shooting Traverse to the right by choosing the best rock and climbing obliquely always to the right on broken rock up to the basin from which you can see the upper part of the wall. On the ledge we stop in common with the Super Ago street that goes up straight. 3rd Shot Climb the ramp to the right and aim for a beautiful slab with overhang that you pass directly. Still to the right up to the corner. Look out from there to make an uncomfortable stop on a very beautiful and panoramic pulpit: the Poet's pulpit. 4 ° Shooting Return to the wall and continue obliquely to the left on very nice and articulated plates that require attention when choosing the itinerary. In fine exposure finally arrive at the same terrace with a stop and book in via della Super Ago. 5th Short cross beam on the left and for a crumbly channel at the top ridge. To the left to the holm oak and peak stop.
Note: scheda via su : http://www.nikobeta.net/FTP/via_Raggio_di_luce_rev_Nik.pdf
Logistic: go beyond the single-track sector, follow the narrow path for 80 meters and on the left there is the attack with a plate at the base.
- Update: 06/11/2012
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