Asini nella notte  - Baiardetta




Description:
Donkeys in the night is a short climb to two lengths, (concatenable with the 4 of the Via dei Camini). The first shot deals with the short spur that closes the upper dihedral to the left, and goes out on the ledge of the Swiss, with a slightly overhanging air passage, bypassing the left. This line is placed just to the right of the corner of SX (1 ch.) And to the left of the two lines that cross the upper dihedral (resin). The second length, on the other hand, is an aesthetic that climbs on sharp outlets that counterclockwise towards the right a band of unstable rocks, to then ride on the increasingly compact lherzolite the spur up to the summit peak. A few final steps lead to the top. This line goes to the left of the "Slit of the Swiss" (Sandro Girtanner), erroneously called the Swiss, bypassing the friable plaque on the right that makes up the Wall of the Swiss.

Access:
Next to the white panel (318 m) there is a dirt road that you take in the direction of some pylons but after about thirty m you leave it turning left on a path (Frassati). You soon reach a dirt road with a chain and continue on the hillside early in view of Mount Pietralunga. Continue until you reach a wooden staircase on the right; go up the same and as soon as you leave, leave the path marked on the right, going left without signpost. We then proceed to SX dubbing two ridges and reaching the Collette di Termi (420 m), where we meet a fork. Leave the DX road and continue straight towards the quarries and Acquasanta. Then continue until the Fontanin junction: continue to the right in an increasingly stony area, leaving the trail for Acquasanta to the left. Continuing to reach the famous Ferrante boulder, go right through the stone and two bridges and passing the torrent Baiardetta continue to the right for small people to a sign indicating the path for experts (F1). Then leave the little men who continue in the bed and continue on the new track, steep and clear, first on hairpin bends and then halfway to the left, until you find the two starting rings of the classic concatenation on the DX, right on the path and below the vertical of the obvious top tower. (45 '- 1h)

First Climb:
Ernesto Dotta, Christian Roccati, 2011

Descent:
From the summit you descend into the back channel and continue uphill as far as the hill between the Baiarda and the ridge of Mount Pennello. Continue to the right up to the top (723 m) and continue on a false level to reach the chapel of the Baiarda (703 m), where there is also a table with benches. Then follow the signs for the collection of Termi on the air trail that enjoys a generous view of the Martin tip. When you reach the collection, continue along the ascent path.

  • Crag: Baiardetta
  • Level: D+, V+ (V obbl.)
  • Height: 50 m
  • Open Date: 2011
  • Beauty:
  • Gear: To repeat donkeys in the night, you will need connecting tapes with gouging to equip the stops and friends and nuts are recommended. Currently the way is protected with stainless fixes close together where necessary and very spaced in simple lines. It is a mountain climbing route and not a climbing route, and has objective mountaineering features. Mountaineering and climbing are potentially dangerous activities that everyone carries out at their own risk. The way is not to be underestimated and must be repeated only by experienced people, who are able to analyze the conditions and the related equipment at the time of repetition.
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 44.4571º
    E 8.7755º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 44.4580º
    E 8.7764º
  • Update: 03/05/2012
  • Reads: 32707

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  Add Pitch

N. Pitch Length Level
1 L5 20 m V
Gr. Note: Si prosegue con qualche metro di raccordo a piedi verso DX in vista di un evidente diedro (diedro superiore). Si notano vari resinati ossidati al suo centro ed immediatamente a SX uno speroncino con fix e piastrine inox. Si sale quindi in direzione del primo fix su alcuni blocchi. La via ripercorre il filo dello sperone prima in verticale poi verso DX, (con il diedro a DX), ed insegue verso DX una sequenza di lame che portano ad uno strapiombo con una marcata fessura. Con passaggio aereo, nel vuoto, si vince atleticamente il chiave che chiude come un tetto il diedro, guadagnando a DX una comoda cengia. Chi lo desidera può evitare l’ultimo passo rinviando il resinato di SX e scavalcando da sopra lo strapiombo. La sosta è su 2 fix a cui collegare anche un resinato di passaggio (generalmente usato per raggiungere la Fessura dello Svizzero che è a DX).
2 L6 0 m V+
Gr. Note: Dalla sosta ci si sposta a DX superando un breve muretto protetto da un fix e si continua verso DX (resinato di passaggio). Si sale ancora per un risalto con passo leggermente strapiombante, qualche lama instabile. Si inizia una diagonale verso SX su roccia buona che porta ad aggirare e superare dall’alto una placca di roccia non buona. La via punta poi ancora a SX risalendo in verticale il tratto più aereo del torrione e probabilmente dell’intero complesso della Baiarda. Si esce quindi su una cengietta erbosa e trascurando il prato ripido a DX si vince un ultimo strapiombo tecnico sino all’uscita dallo sperone. Pochi metri di raccordo portano ad un ultimo passo non protetto (aggirabile a SX) che conduce in sosta. Si scavalca quindi un ultimo passo oltre le statue di vetta e ci si può godere il panorama dalla comoda cima.
V+ sost. 30 m (8 fix + 2 resinati + 1 ch. eventuale)

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