Metal Hurlant




Description:

Beautiful slab route, even if the crux pitch is in a dihedral-chimney.
Recently bolted again (S3)
Be careful, the guards are often out of the climbing line!
In the first pitches the rock does not have great grip and is not very worked, it improves at the top.
Indispensable series of friends from 1 to 3 of which at least 3 or 4 of
N ° 2 (medium-small) or N ° 0.75 (BD) for the crux pitch.


Access:

From the car park, take the walkway that indicates Lauteraarhutte, cross the dam and, with an easy path with ups and downs, go up all over Lake Grimsel. Reached the base of the wall, take a steep path that soon leads under the large slabs (written at the base). About 1.30 hours


First Climb:

fratelli Remy


Stuff:

Normal mountaineering equipment. Two 60 m ropes, 12 Nuts quickdraws and a series of friends from 0.5 to 3 doubling the 0.75, better if triple for L7 and possibly the 2


Descent:

descent on foot from the path or abseil from the road


  • Crag: -
  • Level: 6B, 6B obbl.
  • Height: 1960-2460 / 500 m
  • Open Date: 1989
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: never too exposed, always on a plate

  • Gear: Remy brothers

  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.5654º
    E 8.2742º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 46.5763º
    E 8.3357º
  • Type: granite

  • Note: L1, placca molto liscia 4c.
    L2, placca 5c.
    L3, placca ripida con chiodatura lontana 6a+.
    L4, traverso a dx poi segue fessure 6a.
    L5, tiro in fessura 6a.
    L6, zig zag per placche e muretto con traverso deciso a sx alla sosta, 6a+.
    L7, tiro chiave, si entra nel diedro-camino che dopo un primo fix è tutto da proteggere, al fix d’uscita non proseguire dritto per lame, ma traversarci sotto sino ad un altro diedro a dx, salirlo sino alla sosta, 6b. (se si seguono le lame ci si trova su un traversino di 6c obbl. su un friend dubbio!).
    L8, traversare sotto la sosta, a dx, difficile ma protetto, poi per lame alla sosta, 6a+.
    L9, fessura, poi traverso ostico e muretto sprotetto di 6b, dopo più facile ma da cercare.
    L10, placca chiodata lontana, linea a semicerchio da sx a dx, muretto, 5a.
    L11, 12, 13, 14 e 15 seguire la linea delle protezioni per facili placche e muretti, 5c, 5c, 5a, 5c, 4c.

  • Update: 30/10/2020
  • Reads: 49

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