via Longa  - Stallavena



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Description:

I am particularly attached and fond of this lane.
Thanks to her I took my first steps as a lead climber too many years ago and thanks to her I made many other budding mountaineers discover the joy of “starting from the bottom and reaching the top”.
I consider it very didactic and fun, I have never tired of repeating it and I never will and even if now I no longer fear the first ascent, I know well one day will come soon when I come out puffing from the chimney I will exclaim:
"But ... I remembered it easier is away! "


Access:

From the hairpin bend near the cemetery, descend indifferently from one of the two paths, which after a short time join. Leave on the right that horrendous environmental destruction of a cross with a red polymer heart and go down to rocks keeping the left.
Go under the "Palestrina" sector and then "Peruviana" until you reach the "Longa" sector.
Ours is one of the first routes, start with yellow writing and stamp near a large jutting crack.
Tot: 10/15 min


First Climb:

Angelo Pojesi primi anni ’40


Stuff:

NDA and 10 referrals


Descent:

2 possibilities:

A) Classic descent via 2 double (or 1 single 50m), the first from S3 (chain on plant) 30m to S2 and the second from 20m to the base. Tot: 20/30 min

B) Do not equip S3 on the plant but just after, on 2 resin-coated on the plateau. From there, climb short rocks over elementary terrain and join the summit path which, descending towards the S, quickly joins the cemetery or hairpin bend. Tot: 10 min


  • Crag: Stallavena
  • Level: 4c
  • Height: 350-400 / 70 m
  • Open Date: Angelo Pojesi primi anni ’40
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: IS

  • Gear: Angelo Pojesi early 40s now with spit-fix and resin-coated.

  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 45.5494º
    E 10.9974º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 45.5476º
    E 10.9962º
  • Type: Limestone worked.
    The first two pitches are affected by frequentation as single pitches and belay chains, the third is on beautiful rock.

  • Note: foto ed altre info su:
    www.nikobeta.net/climbing/sportiva/via-longa-stallavena/

  • Logistic: Beware of the P on the hairpin sometimes broken glass. P from the Church or near the bar osteria Castel so you will be close for the third time.

  • Update: 13/10/2020
  • Reads: 375

There are no pics in the gallery, click below to add them:

 
  Add Pitch

N. Pitch Name Length Description Level Mandat.
1 L1 25 m L1 25 4b 7 fix Attaccare in corrispondenza di una larga fessura aggettante (bollo e scritta gialla) quando questa diviene placca traversare leggermente verso DX seguendo sempre i fix gialli. Passo tecnico e poi si perviene alla sosta originale su un terrazzino che consiglio saltare. Salire un’altra breve fessura ed appena rinviato (allungare) stare bassi e traversare a DX su belle gocce esposte ma facili, puntando alla comoda sosta S1 su catena (in comune con “Quando il cielo non è più blu”). 4b 4b
Gr. Note:
2 L2 15 m L2 15m 3c, 4a 3 fix + soste + 1 cordone Traversare 2m a DX (fix evitabile) e quindi salire la breve fessura fino alla evidente cengia mediana. Traversare per terreno facile ma esposto rinviando qualche sosta per poi in corrispondenza dello spigolo abbassarsi (1 cordino in clessidra + 1 fix) con passo non intuitivo. S2 su catena comoda alla base del camino ma non ci si sente con S1. 4a 4a
Gr. Note: Traverso facile ma esposto. Allungare le protezioni.
3 L3 tiro chiave 35 m L3 35m 4b, 4c, 4a 9 fix Entrare nel camino con larga spaccata e salirlo con bella arrampicata fino ad un passo appena più difficile ove si usa pure la placca di DX. Sopra le difficoltà calano ma non mollano fino alla pianta con catena. Consiglio di fare sosta S3 appena sopra su pianoro, 2 resinati da collegare. 4c 4b
Gr. Note: Abbastanza continua sul grado. Bellissimo diedro.

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