via Nicola Simoncelli  - Brentino Belluno



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Description:
Mountaineering logic meanders through slabs and overhangs of excellent limestone.

The signature and class of Coltri comes out clear and if you look at the year of opening you can only consider this way as an emblem of the air of the "New morning" that swept the Adige Valley in the eighties and has kept the clouds away for many years to come.

must-see itinerary for connoisseurs and lovers of sports routes only in the protections.

Access:
P on the road near the cemetery of Brentino (watch out for theft), take the road towards S to the end of the vineyard and then along a steep track towards W, first on pebbles and then in the woods. Pay attention to the junction with the Pale Basse (Mamma Olga) to go up again and not to cross. Shortly after you come across a short rocky strip that you overcome with 2 ropes in place (friable ground, stay close or sheltered out of the vertical). After 30 minutes we arrive at the second junction at the base of the Palal del Boral, The road is already visible right in front of us now.

Still to the left towards the Sass de Mesdì for a few meters on a slight slope until a track that goes right towards the wall comes off.

Metal plate 2 clearly indicates its attack.

Tot 30/45 min

First Climb:
Sergio Coltri

Stuff:
useful friends up to 2 and some uts

Descent:
a) Through 2 doubles, 1 from 50 and 1 from 62m you reach the base of the wall right on the metal plate. Then back to the P in 45 min.

b) Climb up a few meters to faint traces of a path that then, going towards N on a slight slope, leads to the steep grove that, through some of the fixed roads, leads back to the basal ledge on the walls. From here backwards up to P. Hours 1. Solution not tested.

  • Crag: Brentino Belluno
  • Level: 6b
  • Height: 140-600 / 150 m
  • Open Date: 22/09/1988
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: E, NE.
    In the shade in the afternoon
  • Gear: S2, Sergio Coltri
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 45.6322º
    E 10.8595º
  •    Latitude
    Longitude
    N 45.6333º
    E 10.8681º
  • Type: Beautiful gray limestone.
  • Note: L1 25m 5c / 6a partenza dritti a dx di una diedrino da doppiare con passo in strapiombo. Poi placca fino alla sosta

    L2 30m 6a+ Strapiombino ed ancora dritto per bella placca fino ad un deciso traverso a dx che adduce ad un comodo terrazzino. Da li alzarsi atleticamente a vincere un passo difficile e poi sempre a dx con tecnica arrampicata.

    L3 30m 6b A sx in traverso verso il marcato diedro fessura, salire un difficile passo in strapiombo e poi portarsi dentro al diedro fino al suo termine. Uscire su un pulpito appoggiato e da li salire la bella e tecnica placca fino a che si può agevolmente traversare a sx alla sosta appesi. Qui la seconda doppia.

    L4 35m 6b Subito strapiombino a doppia lama da aggirare con astuzia verso dx, giunti sulla placca armarsi di coraggio e calma che non molla per molti metri, a metà lungo passo obbligato. Poi a sx più facilmente verso la sosta appesi. Tiro chiave per continuità

    L5 30m 6a, 6b+ Dritti per placca che aumenta di difficoltà man mano si sale. A metà passo molto tecnico e non intuitivo, poi più facilmente fino ad una ultima fessura erbosa in sosta, comoda. Prima doppia
    .
    sviluppo 150 m
    gradazione 6b+ (6b obbl.), S2, II

    relazione su:

    https://www.nikobeta.net/climbing/sportiva/via-nicola-simoncelli/
  • Update: 08/04/2019
  • Reads: 1068

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