Orizzonti di Gloria - Karpos
Orizzonti di Gloria on Piccolo Lagazuoi
by Manrico Dell’Agnola
An interesting option for a day with uncertain weather..
It’s not a day for great things. Today Alcide and Andrea are with us, but even Paolo doesn’t want to kill himself. Down on the plain it’s sweltering hot, and in the mountains storms are lying in wait. I don’t love bolts, but due in part to laziness and in part to age, I no longer disdain them. A few very beautiful pitches take us to a sharp ridge, not too difficult but exposed and fun ... Even today we climbed in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Interesting and fun climb on excellent bolted rock. The belays are always comfortable and safe, and you can also rappel down from them. The route is logical in certain areas, while in others you must follow the line dictated by the bolts. Ideal climb to fill an afternoon when the weather is uncertain – not difficult, but not trivial either. In the guide books, the technical difficulty is slightly underestimated; here I’ve tried to stay in line with the most reliable crags, since we’re talking about sport climbing.
From the parking lot of the Passo Falzarego cable car, you climb the first ramp of the ski run to reach a clear path to the left (west) that leads to the base of the walls, then follow a trail on scree up to the start of the climb (very obvious to the right of a crack blackened by water).
From the route exit you move left, toward the west, until you reach the obvious path that, with basic protection aids and a suspension bridge, takes you quickly back to Passo Falzarego. If instead you want to fill the day, you can follow the above-described path in the opposite direction and reach Rifugio Lagazuoi in a half hour of easy walking. You can enjoy excellent food and beer there and then descend via the tunnels, the trail or – the easiest option – the cable car to the pass.
- Crag: -
- Level: Fino a 6b (VII); VI- is mandat
- Open Date:
Exposure: SOUTHWEST FACE
Gear: ROLAND GALVAGNI-DIEGO FILIPPI-GINO MITTEMBERGER 2005
- Update: 18/10/2017
- Reads: 6095
|1||L1||35 m||You climb a small, easy slab up to a ledge, then continue straight, first climbing a small overhang and then via a gray slab to the anchor (35 m IV and V).||IV/V|
|2||L2||40 m||Straight until you are below a technical bulge; after climbing this you move to the right, following a line of bolts that traverses upward. After this difficult section, some carved slabs take you to a ledge with two bolts and slings (40 m tricky 6a+ then V and VI).||V/VI|
|3||L3||35 m||From the belay, straight and then toward the left to a bolt; then back in a bit toward the right via fabulous slabs to the belay (35 m IV and V).||IV/V|
|4||L4||40 m||Slightly toward the right via fluid slabs to a ledge that you follow further toward the right to beyond a small rib. Don’t belay under the black crack but 7–8 m to the right (40 m IV and IV+).||IV/IV+|
|5||L5||50 m||You climb on yellow rock to the right of the belay (bolt). Further up, a sequence of good holds leads left on the rib, which you follow to scree, climbing up about 15 meters (50 m 6a and VI).||VI|
|6||L6||60 m||Via scree toward the right to a black overhang with a bolt (VI can be avoided via the ledge to the left), then after climbing two small overhangs to an easier section and then to scree again, until you are below a yellow overhang (60 m VI then V and V+).||V/VI|
|7||L7||40 m||You climb the overhang directly using good “holds” and reach an easy area that takes you to very compact slabs (bolt; if you climb the slab directly it’s a 6b, otherwise to the right it’s VI). A beautiful, slightly easier section then takes you to an exposed edge, which you climb to the top using the layback technique (40 m 6b or VI and V+)||V+/6b|