Onde cerebrali

Il tracciato della via. - Antonio Migheli Il tracciato della via.
Antonio Migheli



The road winds along the Red Pillar of Caprie along the beautiful placconate interposed between two historic streets of GC Grassi, the Via del Suono Vocalizzato and Navi di Pietra. The rock is extremely wrinkled and compact. At a first pitch with force passages and beautiful athletic movements, a second, shorter throw of a very technical plaque follows; the third shot has a start in a delicate plate (in common with the third length of Vocalized Sound), followed by a second section with fun climbing on the corner. The way is fully equipped with bolts, with studs spaced enough to maintain a certain engagement (TD +, S2 / II). On the third shot there is a pressure nail to be returned. The second stop is to be connected.


From Caprie go up in the direction of Campambiardo-Celle; at the last bend before the hamlet of Campambiardo, 5 km from Caprie, park along the road and go up a steep path for about a hundred meters through the meadows until you reach a flat path bordered by dry stone walls; follow it in a southerly direction until it bends to the right (west), slightly lowering into the chestnut wood, and then resuming more or less flat. At the junction to the right for the Paretine di Rocca Bianca (sign), turn left instead crossing a small wall and a small meadow; follow the path that bends to the right (south), passing in some stretches on the hillside, then with a couple of short ups and downs bend to the left (east) and cross the forest until you come out on a rocky placconata, to whose right it detaches the trail that climbs to the top of Rocca Bianca; follow the placconata and a short stretch of downhill path, then turn right and follow the trail between the rocks up to a small clearing of rocks and meadow, near the stop in the streets of Rocca Bianca. Go up the rocks on the right, dismount a short gully between the rocks (II), then deviate to the right (face downstream) and overcome with the help of a fixed rope the gully that separates the White Rock from the Red Pillar; go to the end of the Red Pillar until you reach the below stop (25 minutes from the car, blue signs and small along the way).

First Climb:

Claudio Paiola, Franco Palumbo, Dario Sant'Unione e Antonio Migheli


Two half-ropes of 60 meters. Sufficient 12 referrals. Mobile guards not necessary.


As for the roads in Verdon, it is necessary to lower yourself to reach the base of the Red Pillar and the attack of the way. There are no escape routes along the way. There is no possibility of access from the bottom to the base of the pillar. The return is from the top of the pillar, through the beautiful approach path.

  • Crag: -
  • Level: TD+, 6c max, 6b obb, S2/II
  • Height: 650-740 / 90 m
  • Open Date: 24/12/2015
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: Southwest

  • Gear: Claudio Paiola and Antonio Migheli, November-December 2015.

  •    Latitude
    N 45.1239º
    E 7.3336º
  •    Latitude
    N 45.1296º
    E 7.3316º
  • Type: Serpentine much worked. The PIlastro Rosso is unanimously considered as the sector with the best rock of the whole Caprie area. On it Gian Carlo Grassi had opened four beautiful streets, which are currently being nailed. The need to get down from above to reach the base of the streets and the lack of escape routes had meant that the entire sector was no longer used in recent years.

  • Note: Dalla sosta sulla cima del Pilastro Rosso, sufficiente una sola calata di 55 metri. La via attacca nel punto più basso della base del pilastro (spit visibili).

  • Update: 23/01/2016
  • Reads: 7433


La delicata placca del secondo tiro. - Antonio Migheli
La delicata placca del secondo tiro.
Antonio Migheli

  Add Pitch

N. Pitch Length Description Level
1 L1 30 m diedro con duro passo di blocco e difficile ristabilimento (6c/A0), quindi bellissima sezione su risalti e muretti in traverso ascendente verso sinistra (6a, passo di 6b) e fessura verticale faticosa (6b) fino a sosta su comoda cengia 6a/6c
2 L2 20 m placca tecnica di difficile lettura in partenza (6c) fino a lama che si contorna sulla destra, segue sezione di placca delicata (6b+), poi più facile con un passo delicato (6b) in uscita fino a sosta su ampia cengia 6b/6c
3 L3 30 m placca verticale delicata (6b+), poi più facile e con chiodatura distanziata (6a) ascendente verso destra, quindi diritto in direzione dello spigolo che si supera con un bel ristabilimento (6a+), poi più facile fino alla sosta finale della via 6a/6b+



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