New cliff in alpe San Michele in Portovaltravaglia in the province of Varese. The small alpine village of very ancient origins and the thousand-year-old Church of San Michele al Monte rises in the territory of the present municipality of Porto Valtravaglia, approx. 820 meters above sea level, Splendid and evocative position and the view of Lake Maggiore. The mountain is located in the center of the area between the lakes Maggiore, Como, Lugano and Varese. A few kilometers as the crow flies from the Sacro Monte di Varese. The cliff is a small gem with technical lines and high difficulty on a wall with compact rock; From the center of the alpine core just below the church, where the road forms a 90-degree bend, there is a dirt road that descends towards the town of Pian Dei Ro, a fabulous very large pratone used as summer pasture for animals, very well held overlooking Lake Maggiore.The main sector of the cliff called "big wall" is a vertical wall and just overhanging 21 m high and about 50 m wide. 15 lines of difficulty were spiked from 6a + upwards. Climbing is always delicate and technical on small notches, concretions, razor blades and vertical cracks. Spatatura is systematic and not too long on all the roads and the stops are all connected with chains and carabiners. The wall is exposed to the west and gets full sun from mid-afternoon until sunset, the ideal period is the middle seasons and the morning during the summer. Since the wall is slightly overhanging, it remains dry even after periods of rain. The base of the cliff is a ledge about 5 meters wide, but it is not suitable for families and children. The use of a helmet is recommended. Continuing to the right from the cliff you return to the forest and through a well-structured path you reach the "small wall" and "non-adherence" sectors with lines still WORK IN PROGRESS.
Access: starting point: Alpe san michele (Porto Valtravaglia, VA) Follow the dirt road to a bar where there is the path that goes down to the left towards Sarigo. Just after taking the footpath you meet a first little man and go into the woods going down and slightly holding the left. Follow a path just mentioned in the woods to the right looking one after another the stone men scattered until you reach the crossing of the river. Cross the river and continue to follow the little men to the cliff meeting some fixed ropes that help overcoming some slippery points. Pay attention especially after periods of rain. The time required to reach the first sector is about 15 minutes, for the other sectors from 20 to 40 minutes.