• Mount Mottarone is located between Lake Orta and Lake Maggiore. Very well known for its skiing facilities it is also a true climbing paradise. The crag is made up of several sectors of excellent granite, also known as "pink granite of baveno". At present, about a hundred streets have been equipped, even if the area is in continuous expansion. Excellent variety of difficulty from easy to difficult, from single pitches to multipitches in the "eagle pear" sector. The climbing style is predominantly of adherence broken by some cracking from time to time, with the exception of the overhanging sector where athleticism takes the upper hand with hard and physical throws yet to be released. From the A26 Voltri-gravellona motorway, exit at Carpugnino and follow signs for Gignese Mottarone. For those arriving from Lake Orta take for Armeno then Mottarone. When you reach the summit, leave the car at the parking lot near the restaurant.

  • Access: From the car park, walk back down the road for 100 meters until you see a dirt road on the right where there is a bulletin board and a sign indicating the rock gym. Take the road that soon becomes the path and follow the ridge line for about ten minutes until you reach the pera eagle sector. Go down to the left or right depending on the sector you want to reach. For each sector an illustrative bulletin board is placed and the name is written at the base of the streets.

  • Crag: Mottarone
  • N. Routes: 77
  • Level: 3a/7b
  • Height: 1491 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: southwest
  • Gear: Major nailers were Massimo Medina, Luciano Manganilo, Massimo Bodi, Pierangelo Lavarini, Alberto Paleari, Florian Kluckner. Stands equipped with stainless steel fix with 10 mm dowels. Stops with chain and maillon or carabiners.

  • Rock: Pink granite.

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8789º/E 8.4492º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8805º/E 8.4504º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Zilio: 86,
  • Logistic: Attention: the road that climbs to the summit at the mottarone is obligatory toll.

  • Update: 19/06/2016
  • Reads: 38087

Area Gallery

Mappa 1 - Jimmy Mappa 1

Accesso - Jimmy Accesso


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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Pera/aquilaPera/aquila 9 3b/6c
2 Balena bassa / altaBalena bassa / alta 23 3a/6c
3 CorvoCorvo 3 6a/6b+
4 GufoGufo 8 4a/7a+
5 ElefanteElefante 5
6 Sella/stellaSella/stella 17 5a/6c+
7 Placche Mario BonannoPlacche Mario Bonanno 8 6a/7b
8 StrapiomboStrapiombo 4
N. Name Length Level



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