Rocchino di Cavrenno
Near the Raticosa pass, on the border between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, the Rocchino cliff (Rocca di Cavrenno) is an unusual geologically rare limestone spur in the Apennines. Divided into three climbing areas, this rock tooth is particularly noticeable on hot summer days; accomplice the wind that often blows from Tuscany here. Unfortunately, the rock is not always very compact, so it is advisable to use a helmet. Recently, some logistic maintenance and route retooling operations have been carried out. Two new sectors that were still virgins have been valorised. Other projects are planned. For practical reasons of readjustment the lists of the streets remain at the moment in stand-by. In any case, at the base of the streets, you will often find the general indications on the itinerary.
- Section: toscana
Access: The Apennine pass of Passo della Raticosa can be easily reached both from the Tuscan and from the Emilia side. Please refer to the director of the SS. 65 "della Futa". Reached the Raticosa descend in the direction of Monterenzio. After about 1 km you will see on the left the indications for Cavrenno (paved road). Park "with care" (NOT on the adjacent field!) On the right of the carriageway and take a clear path up to the saddle between Rocchino and another rocky cliff.
Less recommended, but sometimes enjoyable, the winter period due to the altitude (about 880 meters) and the wind. In summer, however, the place is really pleasant! The itineraries on all sides help to find the most suitable exposure.
- Crag: Rocchino di Cavrenno
- N. Routes: 45
- Level: 2b/8a
- Height: 880 mt.
Exposure: The rocky body is equipped in all aspects. The "hidden pillar" sector has two exposures but is often in shadow due to the vegetation and the shadow created by the main spur.
Gear: The nailing is still a bit heterogeneous! There are still pitons dating back to the 50s! There are, however, several routes with 10 mm stainless steel plugs (often quite close together!) And some streets equipped with chemical fixes. Possibility of accessing the summit, taking advantage of the very easy "normal" route (II), to take advantage of the anchorages used for the use of the moulinette (some extension slings are useful!).
Rock: Allochthonous limestone to Calpionelle (fossil) rock with numerous argillitic veins.
In some places, the rock appears a bit metamorphosed. This lithotype is very curious and derives from the fact that all the formation was formed in contact with rocks of magmatic origin (ophiolites).
In the Apennine context, a real rarity!
N 44.1914º/E 11.3501º
N 44.1895º/E 11.3516º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: NONNOMERDO: 85, morbidtrevi: 5, manu: 3, Climb0n3: 1,
Biblio: Recently, a paper guide was written dedicated to the area called "Raticosa Climbing". The small compendium was dedicated to the sites located near the homonymous Apennine pass (Rocca di Cavrenno / Rocchino / Sasso Mantesca). It seems to be already exhausted but, probably, it will be reprinted in the future with the due integration regarding the new developments that followed. Stay tuned !!!
GUIDE TO THE ROCK AND ICE GYM OF THE BOLOGNESE APPENNINE - Maurizio Marsigli Ed. By the UISP Mountain League / Corvacci Group (unobtainable!).
SPORT AND MODERN CLIMBING CLIMBING IN TUSCANY AND THE ELBA ISLAND - F. LENZI - Ed. Versante Sud, Milan 1988.
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Logistic: Pay particular attention to parking. The road leads to a small village and therefore MUST be left accessible. Next to it there are private properties that abuses the abuses. The path that leads to the saddle is marked CAI and therefore easily passable.
- Update: 09/07/2019
- Reads: 36871