Punta Campanella (Sorrento Massa Lubrense)

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© PH_direzioneverticale 2014 / Ogni Diritto Riservato a Direzione Verticale - © 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato © PH_direzioneverticale 2014 / Ogni Diritto Riservato a Direzione Verticale
© 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato
www.direzioneverticale.it





  • It was a winter of a few years ago, my friends and I, mountain enthusiasts were setting up the project 'vertical direction' Raffaele, Nicola and my inseparable companion of adventures Peppe. Well, I was reading about the first 'Malopasso' sport climbing guide by Oreste Bottiglieri of the Campania pioneering between Punta Campanella and Monte Faito! The '80s, Sorrento and Amalfi Coast, there were born the first youth fervors in remote and fascinating places. Our excursions began in search of a story that we did not want to be lost. We found ourselves in a tongue of land on the sea, on the border with the coast, a village overlooking Punta Campanella, called Termini. After this village the infinite, isolation and enchantment, seems to have crossed the door to the Eden. Tropical plants bloom here, the blue of the sea fills your eyes like Saul on the road to Damascus. Punta Campanella is a mystical, ascetic place. On it overlook the Monti Lattari, which after 90 km of saddles and steeples sink softly into the sea and the rocks become white marble, sharp as lances, ready to cleave those stairs. I look at the streets, then there is an 'epigraph osca, the names of the streets refer to the cult of Athena, which here more than 4,000 years ago became a faith for the Greek peoples who passed here, enchanted stopped and prayed to the Goddess. Perhaps they told at home the beauty of the places described in the Iliad. A setting adapted to the imagination of monstrous and fascinating sirens.
  • Access: You leave the square of Termini following the yellow signs and after about 200m you leave the road that continues straight towards Monte San Costanzo and you start to go down. Up to the Punta there is practically no possibility of making a mistake: you follow the main road (whose condition gets worse as you move away from Termini) leaving on the left via Cercito and then on the right via Mitigliano. After this second intersection continue to descend to Cancello (passage between the ridge and a rock pinnacle). Before crossing this entrance, if you make the excursion between January and March, you will see on the top left the beautiful electric blue flowers of the Lithodora rosmarinifolia, endemic plant of the Sorrento Peninsula and Capri. After several hundred meters practically flat, among olive groves, there is a small pitch on the right from which you can enjoy an excellent view of the Tower of Fossa di Papa (recently restored) and Capri. From this point on the road becomes even narrower and more uneven and after a while the final descent to Punta della Campanella begins. Before reaching the widening that overlooks the Minerva Tower (or Campanella) there is a path on the left that leads us into a gorge, run it entirely until you find the first streets of the two sectors
  • Crag: Punta Campanella (Sorrento Massa Lubrense)
  • N. Routes: 30
  • Level: 6b+/6b+
  • Height: 0 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: Minerva Temple Sector: East (Shadow from 14:00) Sector Paretone: South / East (Shadow from 15:30 on the first pitches from the left)
  • Gear: Francesco Galasso, Cristiano Bacci Who recognize the indispensable work done by the nailers? A work made even more noble and precious by its nature almost always free and voluntary. If today you can scale with wide margins of security throughout Italy, it is almost exclusively due to the work of these volunteers. Anyone can also contribute with one euro
  • Rock: Limestone White / gray
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 40.5697º/E 14.3253º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 40.5839º/E 14.3292º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: DirezioneVerticale: 170,
  • Biblio: - http://www.direzioneverticale.it/guide - Sportclimbing on the Amalfi Coast, 1st edition 2014 Publishing house: Vertical-Life. Obsolete guide. - Malopasso, South Versions Editions
  • Links:
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  • Update: 23/12/2016
  • Reads: 74112

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Multi-pitch Blu
© PH_direzioneverticale 2013 - © 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato Multi-pitch Blu © PH_direzioneverticale 2013
© 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato
www.direzioneverticale.it

 
Climb in Punta Campanella © PH_direzioneverticale 2015 - © 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato Climb in Punta Campanella © PH_direzioneverticale 2015
© 2015 Direzione Verticale / Ogni Diritto Riservato
www.direzioneverticale.it

 


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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 ParetoneParetone 17
2 Tempio MinervaTempio Minerva 13
N. Name Length Level
1 Blu 90 m. S1 6c+ max , 6b obb
2 Ragno Di Mare 70 m. S1 6a max , 5c+ obb
3 Trombacci 70 m. s1 6b+ max , 6a obb

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