Penna di Lucchio


  • Hello people, I am Roberto from the Montagna Pistoiese. Although I have never actively participated in various forums or mailing lists, I have followed quite a variety of topics and related discussions. I can only say that having the opportunity to express yourself is always a good thing, given the times that run. Above all when with a passion like ours, we look for the pivot where to run a whole series of values, be they existential, ethical or simply playful; so as to make us feel alive. With the passion for climbing, in 2000 I found myself in the mountains coming from Mugello, an area even more poor in rock formations, immediately trying to discover the new territory. It is the sandstone that is king in the Pistoia mountains without any exception, so the first love was with her. Even today there is an interest in new stones that can be discovered with a keen eye. And since no guide from Tuscany talks about it, I tell you that: if you go through the Abetone ask for the botanical garden, just above it on the path that goes to the black lake, you will find "Il Balzo di Peppone". Historic crag, retooled and expanded lately, with a dozen shots on plate very good and very nice. From 15 to 18mt on good rock with difficulty from 5c to 6c +. In the road that goes down from the botanical garden it is possible in winter, cold allowing you to do a bit of piolet-traction on interesting waterfalls. We are in the Val Sestaione, from there a little further downstream (ask Pian di Novello to indicate the only path) rises the "Torre del Fattucchio", a real bulwark of sandstone. About thirty meters high, it can be climbed on three sides with classic artificial routes and a mixed pathway; eye to the nailing. Approaching and remarkable landscape, pay attention to the rocky rises above the trail. Moving towards S.Marcello Pistoiese above the village of Gavinana in the locality of Pratorsi, we find the "Sasso del Falco" crag already present on the Toscoclimb site or by entering crag .it. A few boulders here and there to make boulders or better in top rope, given the height and slopes below. Sandstone, then, either you really like it or you avoid it. But for a Mugello, climbing on a rock is touching the rock of the house. Looking back on the Lucca area, however, the discourse changes, the Apennine ridge joins the Val di Lima with its erosion showing the first traces of limestone. And it is right above the Lima torrent that we find the most famous cliff of "Cocciglia" well described on "climbing in Tuscany." It 's true that those who like to scale like to dream, and when by chance in the middle of a forest you find on a wall the streets of those who traced before you, then you get stuck. And it was just dreaming, in seeing me every day that in 2001 I decided to see what was good about the "Penna di Lucchio" I found the signs I said before, then with a friend we opened an itinerary of a 25mt on the 5c then nothing. You know, in places you have to go back and not always looking you see. But above all, it takes the companions and it is not easy neither to find nor open the streets trying not to be a whore. Only in 2004 did the thing restart, and with the approach of other climbers it was possible to equip up to date 13 new routes for a total of 19 pitches + the three already existing. I take this opportunity to thank all those who are helping me with their availability. In particular one of them, who despite his mountaineering inclination, proved to be a tireless opener. Transferring the passion for the mountains even in the most sporting practice. We are at 1176mt of altitude at the "Penna di Lucchio" and coming from Croce to Veglia in the approach to the carving with the normal route, the view sweeps over the Apuane, from the summers of the Nona to the unmistakable tip of the Pisanino; on the walls of Prato Fiorito and Cocciglia, up to a first floor on the "Balzo Nero." The rock appears in benches worked by water with blades sometimes clogged with soil and paleo, this in the most supported and easiest plates; where today there are two itineraries. The potential would still be high but it takes a good job to unmount. Unless you decide to climb on what's there, there is. I refer in particular to the mess that someone has decided to undertake with regard to the nailers. In the other sectors, however, they are articulated on different levels with the attack on the grassy ledges at 35m from the ground, and the differences in access or from above or with easy but insidious climbing. On most part of the crag are the karstic erosions, the morphology reminds a little of the Apuane.

  • Access: The possibilities of approaching the Pen di Lucchio are different, being close to the backbone Valdinievole Swiss Pesciatina in the south you can reach directly from Pescia Chiesina Uzzanese exit of the A11. From Pescia take direction Pontito, then for Croce a Veglia 1km of dirt road you come in sight of the yellow poles of the gas pipeline, until you get to a box-type fence, always of the gas in front of this, you will see the south face of the Penna distinguished by its grassy channels that intersected by the rocks make it seem sliced. In front I said, it degrades a beech forest that carries traces of the rainwater under the south; from there climbing in oblique follow the little men and the tracks, you meet the first sector and gradually the others, 20 minutes to the last. Another possible access from both Pistoia and Lucca is to reach the junction for the village of Lucchio on the state road Brennero continue to Zato and from here you decide whether to approach on foot passing the village to take the CAI path coming from Lucchio that going up to the left door in 30 min. to the above-mentioned drainage channel. Or with a slightly raised vehicle, continue in the direction of Croce a vigil and in 3 + 1 km of dirt road rejoins the pipeline. As you can see the cliff is distinctly mountain, I wonder if by its nature and location will have a good attendance. Definitely recommended for those looking for a place where there is a little 'to sweat in approaching "not hard but crisp." Thus enjoying a wild mountain, rich in nuances to grasp and discover, with its unexpected panoramas. Living, and climbing in the environment is always a discovery, remember to respect the habitat, preserving it without leaving unnecessary signs of our passage. Hello to all. Roberto and company.

  • Crag: Penna di Lucchio
  • N. Routes: 31
  • Level: 3b/7a
  • Height: 1176 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: The wall looks to the east. Due to its favorable exposure, the cliff can be used all year round except for the most rigid days. Even after copious rains, most of the walls dry out leaving a few castings.
  • Gear: The riveting is all steel plates and fixes of 10mm chains for ropers. But as usual experience is needed and the opener will not be held responsible for any accidents in sports practice. The 70mt rope is required, max. 15 referrals and the helmet, network coverage is good.

  • Rock: The rock is mostly good to excellent with a strong presence of flint concretions, on both vertical and slightly overhanging slabs. This is the geological classification: MAC and CSV. MAC - Whitish and light gray calcilutites in pews and layers with light gray flint strips and nodules. Thickness up to 400mt. SUPERIOR TITONIC - NEOCOMIANO pp CSV - Limestone Limestone of the Val di Lima. Calciumites and dark-gray calcarenites in layers and benches with slates and nodules of black flint. Thickness up to 300m. BAIOCIANO pp BATONIANO MEDIO

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.0200º/E 10.7100º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.0210º/E 10.7110º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Pughe: 20, lennyp: 1,
  • Update: 26/04/2017
  • Reads: 66029

  • Relazioni in PDF
    Roberto Zaccherelli - Chiodofisso

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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 FantasyFantasy 2 5b/5b
2 AnfiteatroAnfiteatro 4 3b/6b
3 La PennaLa Penna 17 4c/7a
4 MurokarakMurokarak 1 6b+/6b+
5 TotemTotem 6 5c/7a
6 EcoleEcole 1 4a/5a
N. Name Length Level
1 Gli amici di buricchio 0 m. S1 diff. VII obbligatorio



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