Falesia di Sassomorello
The cliff rises in a privileged position. A shield of ophiolite rises among the branches of a coppice for more than twenty meters. When you are in the chain and you look around you will see only soft and green hills, a few houses and in the distance the unmistakable profile of the Apennine chain with the Cimone and Corno alle Scale in beautiful view.
- Section: emilia-romagna
Access: The recommended, fastest and closest access to the cliff is from above via a fixed rope. You park at the end of the closed road that serves the Sassomorello cemetery and then descend by a non-obligatory path towards the wide rocky plateau but standing on its upper edge, on the lawn before the trellis aiming for a plant. Red stamp and plate identify the descent. Tot: 3 min
Another access is possible from below, leaving the car in the small clearing between the church of San Bartolomeo and the recycling bins (here there is also a tire with drinking water).
Now head towards the group of houses and go down towards the east along the cart track between the church and the latter.
Choose the thinnest grass at the crossroads keeping the E, NE direction as orientation. In short you are in sight of the walls and when you reach the Didactic Sasso there is the wooden plaque. Here you will be at the center of the sectors.
This access passes through the village and private homes. Be respectful, avoid noises, noises and dirt, under penalty of losing the unicum of this crag and causing future bans. Tot: 6 min
- Crag: Falesia di Sassomorello
- N. Routes: 14
- Level: 3c/6c+
- Height: 670 mt.
Exposure: EAST - SOUTH
Gear: Excellent for resin. Stops closed (see info below).
Rock: The compact and dark ophiolite offers climbing that is more technical than physical, similar to that learned on rocks more suited to climbing, such as granite and gneiss.
Here we have to be satisfied with a raw material that, even if at first it seems just as monolithic, is not.
Clear notches, strips and blades are to be grasped and pulled with great caution. Even supports on roughness do not always tolerate being put under pressure. The sudden and unannounced detachment is a normal condition for this rock which, cooling rapidly under the compression of the Tethys, has not had time to dissolve its internal tensions. A bit like us humans in short.
The resulting climbing divides climbers clearly: either you love it or you hate it!
I am naturally from the first faction and I believe that the experience that can be gained from climbing on this crag, even if in such a controlled and comfortable environment, can still offer small "psychological engagements" and a precious experience that will be useful on many other walls and tops.
From this point of view, all the single pitches have been traced from an "alpinistic point of view" and therefore it is not uncommon for "wall turns" to find: traverses, cracks and dihedrals just like in the mountains.
N 44.4259º/E 10.7403º
N 44.4253º/E 10.7382º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: andreaunga: 17, NONNOMERDO: 1, nikobeta: 1,
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Logistic: Given the particular nature of the rock, the helmet is mandatory both for those who climb first but even more for the latter or those who are under the walls in amusement and chat.
The first anchors were placed very close to the ground to avoid ground flights. Do not frustrate everything with safe at kilometer distances or inattentive. Up to the third postponement stay plumb under your "first" and be careful to leave slack but "parry" until he has positioned the first postponement and immediately after recover.
All the belays were fixed without carabiner but with a closed loop. This type of stop is the one that today guarantees the least wear, the most reliability and therefore the greatest possible safety.
However, this makes it essential to know perfectly the “maneuver” for passing the rope inside a closed loop.
If it is not clear to you the “maneuver” of passage to get you down in ropes, have it taught by someone who knows it well, better if an instructor or mountain guide. In the Sasso Didattico at the base you will find 3 comfortable anchors on the path placed there appost!
- Update: 19/01/2022
- Reads: 5215
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