Falesia degli Scalpellini (Montovolo)


Quadro d'insieme - Falesia degli Scalpellini - ciacci Quadro d'insieme - Falesia degli Scalpellini

  • This cliff has been named after the historical vocation of these places. Since the Middle Ages, in the area of Montovolo and Monte Vigese, several sandstone quarries were in use, mainly used for artistic creations and imposing blocks. The quarries gave work to several artisans (... or artists!) Who with their skilful dexterity helped to characterize all the architecture of the Rhine valley and beyond. Their memory remains alive also because, the cliff, is located in a quarry front to now disused. Since the stone was extracted with very manual methods, it will strike you that the context will not really look like it!

  • Access: For those coming from the North: once in Sasso Marconi continue in the direction of Porretta Terme on the SS64 to Riola di Vergato, here keep for Camugnano and then for Vigo and Campolo. For those coming from the South: an alternative route could be the one that goes along the SP.52 from Porretta to Ponte di Verzuno (SP.23) and continue towards Borgo la Scola (... almost entirely made of Montovolo stone) and then Campolo on the SP.72. Access to the walls: Park in the large parking lot in Piazza di Campolo, near the sculpture dedicated to the stonecutters (Piazza degli Scalpellini). From here continue on foot along the road that goes uphill (... to the right of the bar). After a few meters, turn right and continue until an evident hairpin bend. From here turn left towards Serretti passing through pretty stone houses. Continue along the road, now no longer paved, which runs along the forest to a widening with fence. From here go slightly to the right on the old quarry ramp. After about 200 meters, in the presence of a ruin of stone blocks, take the path indicated by omette and some rope rails. After a while you will find yourself at the base of the main wall. For the High Altes Sector, segure on the right uphill traces up to the base of the structure.

  • Crag: Falesia degli Scalpellini (Montovolo)
  • N. Routes: 54
  • Level: 3c/7c+
  • Height: 680 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: The main wall has North West exposure. The wall called Pale Alte is more exposed to the West.
  • Gear: Very good even if slightly inhomogeneous. In relation to the grain size of the lithic material, different types of anchors have been chosen.

  • Rock: To quote the words of a local historian "it is a sandstone of good quality not inferior as a building stone to the best boulder". Technically it is Hybrid Sandstones with a high concentration of feldspathic quartzes. It follows that you will be faced with a "bricolata" wall, however, with many natural supports created by natural cracking or by the action of atmospheric agents.

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.2193º/E 11.0835º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.2157º/E 11.0804º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Ciacci: 113, Climb0n3: 39, NONNOMERDO: 2,
  • Biblio: Guide "Harrowing in the Upper Rhine and surroundings" (in progress)

  • Links:
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  • Logistic: The town is located in the municipal territory with various easements of passage. Do not try to park in other places because many places are assigned to residents. In the square of Campolo you will find a Bar / Restaurant and a grocery store, with local specialties, often open on Saturday and Sunday. The public fountain, however, is along the Via Montovolo.

  • Update: 26/07/2021
  • Reads: 23880

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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 CavinaCavina 11 4c/7a+
2 Pale Alte di DestraPale Alte di Destra 5 5b/6a+
3 Pale Alte di SinistraPale Alte di Sinistra 6 5b/7c
4 CAVACAVA 17 5c/7b
5 GrottinoGrottino 6 6b+/7c+
6 Il MurettoIl Muretto 3 3c/4c
7 Parete Di MezzoParete Di Mezzo 6 5a/6a+
N. Name Length Level



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