Urbe - Rocca della Serra

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Rocca della Serra, 28 Agosto 2016 - E.Ferraro Rocca della Serra, 28 Agosto 2016
E.Ferraro






  • The rock belongs to the group of serpentinoscisti characteristic of the Valle Orba area. The cleaning, wrecking and nailing work, by Enrico Ferraro, began in May 2016 and ended in May 2017. 12 lines + 1 variant and 1 concatenation were obtained, for a total of 14 routes between grade 5 and grade 7. It is recommended, in view of the recent opening of the climbing site and the morphological characteristics of the "montagnino" mold wall, the use of a protective helmet. The riveting is generally close. Slightly more spaced in the easy and very close sections in difficult or where you are exposed to potential objective risks.
  • Access: By car, exit Masone (GE) on the A26, towards Passo del Turchino, Passo del Faiallo, you reach the village of Vara Inferiore (30 minutes from the toll). Once in the village, before the church square, turn left towards Dano. Continue downhill for about 1 km and reach the small bridge over the Orba stream. From here, continue uphill for another two kilometers, after which the road returns to the Dano basin. Beyond an obvious rural house located in the middle of a wide hairpin left (nice view of the Rocca della Biscia above), missed the junction on a private road that goes into the woods (wooden plate "DAN" hanging from a cord), is parked car on the left in the middle of the dry curve on the right (3.4 km from the junction for the Dano da Vara Inferiore). In case you incorrectly overcome the widening, reached after a couple of curves the little chapel of the Dan, go back to find the widening at the third bend to rise starting from the same cap. From the car park, one enters the forest (except for) in the direction of Rio Rostiolo and after reaching its waters it runs along it on its left bank in the direction of travel. Reached the small tributary of the Rio delle Secche, you look at it a few meters upstream of its beautiful waterfall. After crossing the ford, continue along the Rio della Serra, (another tributary that together with the Rio delle Secche just waded, from the Rio Rostiolo origin), to find the base of the homonymous fortress a hundred meters above the ford to its left. (5 minutes from the car, except for)
  • Crag: Urbe - Rocca della Serra
  • N. Routes: 14
  • Level: 5b/7a
  • Height: 750 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: The recommended periods are spring, summer (possible bathing in the fresh and transparent pools of the Rio della Serra, a few meters from the wall), and the first weeks of autumn. Avoid the days following heavy rains.
  • Gear: Enrico Ferraro - May 2016-May 2017
  • Rock: serpentinite
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4521º/E 8.5991º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4554º/E 8.6001º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: EnRi978: 28,
  • Logistic: EDM SV1 Beigua Park, Map of Trails 1: 25000
  • Update: 08/06/2017
  • Reads: 2442

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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Parete Nord OvestParete Nord Ovest 14 5b/7a
N. Name Length Level

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