Urbe - Rocche dell Orbarina

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Le Rocche dell'Orbarina dalla Cava Martinotti - Enrico Ferraro, 16 Agosto 2015 Le Rocche dell'Orbarina dalla Cava Martinotti
Enrico Ferraro, 16 Agosto 2015






  • Imposing structure, proportionally to the area generally of rock where it is located, overlooking, interspersed with large grassy ledges, on the stream Orbarina. The work of displacement and riveting initially involved the southernmost part of the main wall and a small independent structure adjacent to it, which later proved to be an excellent experimentation ground for those who took their first steps on rock. Other itineraries are in the pipeline on the main body and on the north wing, all linked to an indispensable (and cyclophic!) Work of defrosting. Given the morphological characteristics of the rock, the climb is strongly linked to its discontinuity, but the enchanting scenery, the severe profiles of these serpentinites, as well as the virginity of the site itself, make a visit to this little corner of the world a must for lovers of the typical wild nature of the Ligurian hinterland. THE PROHIBITION OF CLIMBING FOR AVIOFAUNA NESTIFICATION FROM 1 DECEMBER TO 31 JULY IS IN FORCE!
  • Access: By car: Exit at Masone, go up the Turchino pass and turn towards Passo del Faiallo. You will pass the villages of Vara Superiore, Vara Inferiore (Pilastrino delle Coccinelle and Rocca della Marasca in the area) and you will reach the town of San Pietro d'Olba. Continuing for Sassello, once in loc.La Carta turn left towards Alberola / Monte Beigua. Leaving behind the last houses, look to the left a steep fork in the descent in the middle of a sharp curve to the right. Having taken the private road, paying attention to any cars arriving in the opposite direction, you reach a small sheet metal casing near the aqueduct reservoir. Here, leave the car in the large adjacent dirt road. Approach: Follow the path which, on the aqueduct side, enters the wood halfway uphill in the opposite direction to that of arrival at the car park (small and red mark). The trail proceeds for about 250 meters on a false level and then begins to climb. Earned only a few meters, leaving the main path you turn left into the woods (descent, small and red stamps) for about 100 meters. Reached a small clearing in the middle of the woods, continue to the right in relation to the direction of travel to reach after another 200 meters the rock balconies jutting out over the Torrent Orbarina, which runs 100 meters further downstream. From here, again for red stamps on a very large ledge very exposed, reach the base of the rondinella plaque and then the south wing of the eagle wall.
  • Crag: Urbe - Rocche dell Orbarina
  • N. Routes: 25
  • Level: 4a/7a
  • Height: 750 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: Perfect for the beautiful winter mornings, the midseason days and the cool summer afternoons. Not recommended for wet days.
  • Rock: Serpentinoscisti
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4782º/E 8.5780º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4813º/E 8.5768º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: EnRi978: 140,
  • Logistic: Pay attention to the wide ledges exposed in the final approach stretch and to the base of the eagle wing.
  • Update: 16/06/2017
  • Reads: 6709

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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Parete dell'Aquila - Ala SudParete dell'Aquila - Ala Sud 10 4b/6b
2 Placca RondinellaPlacca Rondinella 5 4a/5c
3 Parete dell'Aquila - Ala NordParete dell'Aquila - Ala Nord 8 6a+/7a
4 Parete dell'Aquila - Corpo PrincipaleParete dell'Aquila - Corpo Principale 2 5c/6a+
N. Name Length Level

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