Val dell Oro


  • The cliff, placed at the edge of an industrial area, consists of a long strip of white limestone vertical or slightly overhanging from 10 to 30m high, the MAIN SECTOR, and from the SECTOR OF THE TORRENT, a wall of 40 meters placed a little further in a small canyon crossed by a small river. Climbing in general is technical and continuous, mostly on excellent rock with sharp drops and cleats with punitive steps for the fingers; some itineraries however are particularly greasy.

  • Access: 1.From Milan follow the SS36 exiting before the Monte Barro tunnel ramp (direction Lecco-Lago, Oggiono, Civate). At the first roundabout take a right for Galbiate and then left for Valmadrera. Go past the Civate-centro detour and continue towards Valmadrera, then turn left into Via Fiume, at the end of which you will connect with the road that comes from Civate. Follow it briefly to the right until the beginning of the climb to the Gold Fraction. Park at the side of the road and, through an opening of the fence under the cliff, you immediately reach the MAIN SECTOR that runs along uphill towards the right; 3 minutes. For the SECTOR OF THE TORRENT go up to the Fraz. Oro, parking on the left before the houses. A little further on, in front of the Trattoria Da Edo, you go down a stairway and, over the railing, you reach the small stream under the wall. 2.From Lecco reach Valmadrera, continuing towards Civate until you turn right into Via Fiume. Follow the above instructions.

  • Crag: Val dell Oro
  • N. Routes: 56
  • Level: 5c/8a+
  • Height: 250 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: North Period: All year round, even in the summer if there is not too much heat. The sun appears for a couple of hours in the late afternoon and the rock dries very quickly, apart in the TORRENT SECTOR.
  • Gear: Excellent at Fix. Chiodatori The area was a classic rock gym for the Valmadreresi since 1949, then from the 80s Delfino Formenti required to fix all the streets opening up many new pitches.

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8339º/E 9.3429º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8341º/E 9.3442º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Michele67: 59,
  • Update: 30/06/2013
  • Reads: 29980

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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Falesia del TorrenteFalesia del Torrente 17 6a/7a+
2 Settore principaleSettore principale 39 5c/8a+
N. Name Length Level



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