Le Vie - Foresto - l'Orrido

  • The gymnasium, or cliff, if you prefer, dell 'Orrido, is the Valsusina wall that more than any other has known fame and fashion, even internationally, it has been, at least twice in the middle of the great revolutions of Italian climbing and more. It all began at the end of the 60s when Mr. Chec, a Valsusine alpinist and climber from Turin, opens the way to the "Oblique Slit" which will remain for several years, the most famous crack in Piedmont, and the wall is overhanging. A little later, but now times were never ripe, the wall is taken by assault by the group of young Piedmontese mountaineers of the "Wild Heap" who work to open and repeat a whole series of itineraries, which for the time were of very high difficulty, are born routes like the "Green Dwarfs" because these are the visions of the protagonists, during their adventures on the wall. We are in the early 70s, when a new way of conceiving the climb on the walls of the valley floor, no longer seen as pure training for the high mountains, but as an end to itself activity, where the peak to dominate is no longer the situation, but the aesthetics and the climbing gesture. Little by little the Orrido becomes, rightly, the most difficult gym in Piedmont, on its supports the strongest climbers of the period pass, until on a rainy day in 1980, the wall is so overhanging that it is not touched by water, the visit of a young and very strong French climber-climber opens the eyes and the road of what will be the second historical moment of the Orrido. That day Patrick Bherault, practically frees the whole way of the Green Dwarfs, falling repeatedly on the most difficult passages and trying again until the success, including the large roof, located on the third pitch then evaluated 6C, in Italy had never seen anything similar. Obviously our people are not looking and already the next day, they launch in the footsteps of Patrick, and so it is that within a very short time Marco Bernardi repeats the gesture, freeing even some very short sections left out by Bherault. From here on it was a succession of climbs in the new style, of bolting with bolts of the traditional ways, of laying down to avoid climbing the high parts of the streets, which generally did not offer interesting difficulties. And of course also the opening of new and even more difficult itineraries, in particular the exploit of Marco, who only a couple of years later is free and "Strenous" still evaluated 7C + (difficult). Still for several years, until the mid-90s, L 'Orrido will remain a temple and a place of worship for the strongest. Today the wall, in the eyes of the young, can not be as fascinating as it was for the generations that have lived in the first person, but the environment, the noise of the stream and its freshness will still give strong emotions. The streets are generally overhanging, on good grips, although quite polished by the passage. The rock is a very old limestone, consisting of large bands of roofs, and some fissures. The crag has been re-equipped a few years ago with excellent resinated taps, thanks to the contribution of CAAI; therefore today the nailing is excellent on almost all the first shots, most of the seconds, and also on some of the third shots. Instead, the remaining routes require experience in assessing anchorages on site. Although the wall is located at low altitude it is very sunken, it receives sun only in the early hours of the morning and it is also very windy, so suitable in the middle seasons and on hot summer afternoons, almost all the itineraries can also be frequented by rain. Several routes of two pitches can be covered in ropeways with a 60/70 meter rope

  • Crag: Foresto - l'Orrido
  • Sector: Le Vie
  • N. Routes: 19
  • Level: 5a/7c+
  • Beauty:
  • Update: 2015/03/02
  • Reads: 2679

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Gr. N. Name Falesia WIKI Falesia WIKI Asc
5a+/6b  Herror Horror  
Note: 6B/5a+
6a+/6b  Danilo Galante  
Note: 6B/6A+/6A+
6c+  22 Marzo  
6c  Asterix  
Note: 6C - A0/6C
5a+/6c  Tetti Bianchi  
Note: 6C/5+
6b/7c+  Ipertensione  
Note: 7A+ (7C+)/6B
5a+/7a  Nani Verdi  
Note: 7A/5+/6C/5+
7c+  Strenuos  
6b/7a+  Pulcinastro  
Note: 7A+/6B
5a+/7a  10  Nani Verdi  
Note: 7A/5+/6C/5+
7b  11  Salto del Salmone  
6c  12  Mani di Fata  
5a/5a+  13  Fessura Obliqua  
Note: 5+/5/5/5/5+
6b+/6c+  14  Elefante Rosa  
Note: 6C+/6B+, var. Elefante Rosa Var. 6C
5a+/6c  15  Arcobaleno Controculturale  
Note: 5+/6C/6A
6c  16  Bobetto  
5a+/6b  17  Luce Rossa  
Note: 5+/6A+/6B
6a  18  Tettini Bianchi  
5a  19  Rantolino  



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