The cliff is located in the municipality of Montignoso (province of Massa - Carrara), on the hill on which stands the Aghinolfi Castle, on the slope overlooking the sea. It can be observed in particular from the highway that passes just below the hill.
- Section: toscana
Access: From the city of Massa, follow the SS1 "Aurelia" heading south. Leaving the city we walk a few kilometers and we find ourselves at the locality Capanne, fraz. of Montignoso, we find a traffic light (loc. bridge of Bonotti) and we turn to the left following the indications for the high fractions of Montignoso, Pasquilio, Castello Aghiolfi. Coming from Versilia in the direction of La Spezia, always on the SS1 at the usual traffic light turn right. After turning at the traffic lights continue for about 500 m at the fork we keep the right, overtake a first bridge, at the second we find turn right (at the restaurant the Bottaccio). Segure the road (via Palatina) uphill for more than 1 km and park on a clearing in front of the entrance to the castle Aghinolfi. From the car go down for 100m, and at the first bend over the gurd-rail (there is a GESTRY red in the guard-rail) and take the obvious trail that goes down into the bush. In less than 5 minutes and we are at the base of the Falesia.
- Crag: Montignoso
- N. Routes: 28
- Level: 4b/7b
- Height: 50 mt.
Exposure: The exposure of the streets is on average south-west, roughly climbs in the sun from 11/12 in the morning until sunset. This fact, together with the very low altitude and the proximity of the sea, makes the cliff accessible all year round. The wall dries fast enough; usually you can climb even the first day after a period of rain.
Rock: The rock is of good or excellent quality; it is a varied and varied limestone, which requires a mixed climbing style, both technical and athletic. Difficulties (excluding the last passage of route 2 in the DX sector) range from about 4b to 6b. The routes are all single pitches not exceeding 30 m in length, so a rope of 60 m and 12 is sufficient, even for the longest routes. The stops have been partially renewed (others still have old equipment) and are generally composed of two fixings or bolts with a chain and ring.
N 44.0078º/E 10.1658º
N 44.0079º/E 10.1670º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: NikoMs90: 43,
Biblio: Thanks to this mini-guide DAVID CARRIERO for the draft and all the people who collaborated with you: P. COSEDDU, A. BIFFIGNANDI, G. FALCINI.
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Logistic: The cliff is in private property, where climbers are well tolerated as long as they keep clean and do not light fires.
- Update: 30/06/2013
- Reads: 36217
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