Monte Orsa Viggiu


  • The wall is oriented towards the north, overlooking the lake of Lugano. Excellent during very hot summer months, impracticable during the winter (height 1000m) and particularly cold mid-season days, also due to the possible presence of ice. During the autumn particularly spectacular, thanks to the color of beech and larches during this period. The degrees start from the 3rd. Even if low grades are present, it is not recommended for beginners, as stops are not always in excellent condition, and sometimes there is a need to integrate them. Climbing is varied, from the plaque with good grips to the one with cleats and drops, up to the overhanging cliffs, with short roofs. The total of the routes is 57, even if the cliff is still under renovation.

  • Access: -From Varese: Follow the signs for Swiss passes (Gaggiolo). Arrive at the last roundabout, after which you arrive at the border, turn left and follow the signs for Viggiù. From varese 25 minutes. -From Mendrisio: Take the highway that leads from Mendrisio to the via Cantonale. At the traffic light you have two possibilities: 1) Turn left and go towards Gaggiolo. After crossing the border follow signs for Viggiù. (longer road) 2) Go straight, get to Lingometto and from here follow via Cantinetta, which will lead to Clivio customs. When you get to Clivio, follow the signs for Viggiù. (Shorter) - From Rancate: Follow the signs for Arzo-Saltrio. Arrive at the customs, follow the directions for Viggiù. ATTENTION PART OF THE APPROACHING ROUTE IS CARRIED OUT IN THE GALLERIES OF THE SECOND WORLD WAR. WHILE THEY ARE IN GOOD CONDITION, IT IS NECESSARY TO BRING WITH A TORCH, AND NEVER TO BECOME IN SOLITARY. The author of this, and the creators of the forum, decline any responsibility for damages to things or people. Arrived at the village of Viggù, follow the signs for Monte Orsa, Monte Pravello, Linea Cadorna. In a few minutes the road becomes a hairpin bends, until then continue on a short dirt road. 1) Arrived almost at the top of the mountain (if you arrive at the top, you will be in front of the antennas and the repeater) on the right you will find a dirt road (the curve looks like a hairpin). Continue on the latter and the first clearing that you find parked. Looking upstream, on the left you will find a road that continues towards the woods, take it, and in two minutes you will find yourself at the entrance of a tunnel. Enter and take the first exit on the right. Exit the opening turn left and you will immediately find the first streets. 2) the alternative to the dirt road is to continue up to the high voltage post you meet on the road, after the dirt road on the right. Park the car at the side of the road and take the path, which goes uphill, on a road now full of grass. You will meet another high voltage pylon and immediately after entering the tunnel. Follow it entirely and take the last exit on the left. From the same description above.

  • Crag: Monte Orsa Viggiu
  • N. Routes: 57
  • Level: 3b/7a
  • Height: 1000 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: North
  • Rock: Limestone

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8887º/E 8.9161º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 45.8887º/E 8.9181º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: lennyp: 65, janno: 3, lc.fitrugby: 1, fra.nkill: 1,
  • Update: 27/07/2021
  • Reads: 36581

Area Gallery

Parete - User Parete

Parete2 - User Parete2


Parete3 - User Parete3

Sentiero monte orsa - Seraph Sentiero monte orsa


Cava la brusada - Seraph Cava la brusada


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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Alter EgoAlter Ego 14 4c/6c
2 FaciloniaFacilonia 13 4c/6a+
3 MacaoMacao 4 3b/6a
4 MarcelMarcel 5 4c/6a+
5 Orsa MinoreOrsa Minore 10 5c/7a
6 Scoglio del TramontoScoglio del Tramonto 11 3b/6a
N. Name Length Level



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