La Pietra di Bismantova


Vista panoramica Bismantova - Wikipedia Vista panoramica Bismantova

  • The Pietra di Bismantova is a characteristic geological formation of the Reggio Apennines, in the municipality of Castelnovo ne 'Monti, a town that rises up on its slopes. It looks like a narrow plateau with steep walls, which stands out isolated in the Apennine mountains. This crag can be considered the most interesting and complete rock gym in Emilia Romagna. The summit consists of a vast plateau with groves and meadows, reachable in just 15 minutes via an easy path or, with adequate equipment, through a via ferrata. In short, in Pietra there is a bit of everything, even a cozy Foresteria where there is the possibility to sleep and taste typical dishes of the area with the addition of a fantastic family atmosphere and in addition, there is a Bar-Restaurant where to refresh.

  • Access: Suggestions for slow and suggestive approaches If Dante appointed Bismantova, he necessarily saw her; and he arrived there by force on foot or on the back of a mule. Road Accesses: Parma, Traversetolo, Vetto d'Enza, Castelnovo or Monti: National Road 513 km 60 Reggio Emilia, Puianello, Casina, Felina, Castelnovo or Monti National Road 63 km 45 Modena, Sassuolo, Felina, Castelnovo or Monti Strada Statale 486 km 64 La Spezia, Aulla, Fivizzano, Cerreto Pass, Castelnovo ne Monti State Road 63 km 84 Reaching Castlenovo né Monti and following Poeter di Bismantova. From the car park in Piazza Dante, you can easily climb in a few minutes on a paved road to the hermitage, where the real paths begin.

  • Crag: La Pietra di Bismantova
  • N. Routes: 310
  • Level: 2a/A2
  • Height: 930 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: The Primary exposure is EST, but the sectors are also in NORTH, NORTH EAST and after 2 PM go to SHADE. OWEST in the sun for only a few hours in the morning.
  • Gear: Most of the Falesia is closed to FERLE and INOX CHAINS, FISHER can still be found in excellent condition. BE CAREFUL TO THE RUNNING ROPE SHOES, they could be USED.

  • Rock: Bismantova a rocky conglomerate of compact sandstone, often smoothed by water, which rises 120 m above the ground; climbing is therefore mainly of balance and technique. This place can be visited 12 months a year, following or avoiding the sun, with the possibility of running out of energy on the 300 existing itineraries. These are subdivided into mono shots and in long, sporty and safe spikes. In the upper part of Bismantova it is advisable to climb in TopRope (ie using the rope from above) not being particularly frequented, and because on the edges, due to weathering, there are very unstable stones. In this guide I decided to put all the climbing routes safe, then since around the Stone there are some beautiful mountains that give countless possibilities for trekking, I have inserted photos and some itinerary to access them without being expert mountain dwellers. I partially inserted the boulders in the woods and I will refer to updated online sites, managed by "real boulderers". The aim of this guide is to make you want to climb a thousand-year-old sandstone. However, this work does not exempt you from respecting the safety rules of an activity still considered to be at risk. And still respected the nature avoided to satisfy your needs in the woods under the walls, take away your plastic bottles and your waste. Good Climbing! The Pietra di Bismantova breaks the good-natured profile of the middle Apennines of Emilia with the visual arrogance of the best known "stones" in the world, a sort of Ayres Rock transmigrated from the harshness of the Australian desert to one of the most accessible and hospitable lands in Italy. An amazing synthesis that promises together emotions and comfort, a seductive mix for the most diverse categories of tourists and sportsmen. A destination for quiet families who are content to admire it from the nose up, as a rock gym attracts the most daring climbers from all over Italy. His paths allow climbing of different levels, with the techniques and philosophies that suit everyone. The consolidated hospitality of Castelnovo Monti, with its hotels, agritourisms, real estate rents, quality restaurants, renewed sports facilities, guarantees a pleasant stay, in keeping with everyone's tastes and possibilities. La Pietra, moreover, of his own, adds to us the charm of history and literature, the memory of the Byzantine castle that stood on the top and the verses of Dante who compared it to the mountain of Purgatory. And climbing the Purgatory would be like saying climbing to Heaven. Sorry if it's cheap. The stone consists of a sedimentary calcareous rock stratified above a level of marl, all of which originated as a seabed in the Miocene period. The subsequent cracking and fragmentation of the calcareous layer, followed by erosion, has left intact the currently visible slab portion, 1 km long, 240 meters wide and 300 meters high compared to the surrounding plain. Thanks Alex

  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4191º/E 10.4121º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.4175º/E 10.4119º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Clifford: 122, DanieleP79: 38, pinmc: 21, sig_nessuno: 7, lennyp: 3, Fefo: 3, Alex657: 2, donadona: 2, emaborsa: 1, alex1976: 1,
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  • Update: 06/09/2020
  • Reads: 205875

Area Gallery

Schizzo dei Settori - Pietra di Bismantova Schizzo dei Settori
Pietra di Bismantova

Mappa Sassi 
 - Clifford Mappa Sassi


Cartina Settori - Clifford Cartina Settori


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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 Gare Vecchie/VerbumGare Vecchie/Verbum 32 4c/8a+
2 Zona GabriZona Gabri 11 5a/7b+
3 IllusioniIllusioni 10 6a/7c
4 Gare NuoveGare Nuove 15 5c/8c
5 Torrione SirottiTorrione Sirotti 45 5b/7a+
6 Pilastro KreuzPilastro Kreuz 2 6c/7a+
7 Anfiteatro BassoAnfiteatro Basso 5 6b/7c
8 Banana/Nino MarchiBanana/Nino Marchi 28 5a/8b
9 Pilone GialloPilone Giallo 23 4a/8b
10 Pietra BassaPietra Bassa 11 4c/7b+
11 Cocoa - Anfiteatro AltoCocoa - Anfiteatro Alto 18 5b/8a+
12 Punto TrigonometricoPunto Trigonometrico 11 5b/7b
13 ESTASIESTASI 10 5b+/7a+
14 Ferrata Bassa/PornografieFerrata Bassa/Pornografie 11 5a/6c
15 PornografiePornografie 6 5b+/6a+
16 Sasso Batman/Ragazzine VizioseSasso Batman/Ragazzine Viziose 8 5a/6c+
N. Name Length Level
1 Danger in Trip 0 m. A2/A4+
2 North Emilian Wall 0 m. A4+/6A



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