La Pietra di Bismantova
The Pietra di Bismantova is a characteristic geological formation of the Reggio Apennines, in the municipality of Castelnovo ne 'Monti, a town located on its slopes. It looks like a narrow plateau with steep walls, which stands isolated among the Apennine mountains.
This crag can be considered the most interesting and complete climbing wall in Emilia Romagna.
The summit consists of a vast plateau with woods and meadows, which can be reached in just 15 minutes via an easy path or, with suitable equipment, via a via ferrata.
In short, in Pietra there is a bit of everything, even a welcoming Guest House where there is the possibility to sleep and taste typical dishes of the area with the addition of a fantastic family environment and in addition, there is a Bar- Restaurant for refreshment.
- Section: emilia-romagna
Access: Suggestions for slow and suggestive approaches
If Dante mentioned Bismantova, he must have seen her; and he got there by force on foot or on the back of a mule.
Parma, Traversetolo, Vetto d'Enza, Castelnovo né Monti:
State Road 513 km 60
Reggio Emilia, Puianello, Casina, Felina, Castelnovo né Monti
State Road 63 km 45
Modena, Sassuolo , Felina, Castelnovo né Monti
State Road 486 km 64
La Spezia, Aulla, Fivizzano, Passo del Cerreto, Castelnovo né Monti
State Road 63 km 84
Reach Castlenovo né Monti and follow Pietra di Bismantova.
From the car park in Piazza Dante, you can easily go up the paved road in a few minutes to the hermitage, where the actual paths begin.
- Crag: La Pietra di Bismantova
- N. Routes: 311
- Level: 2a/A2
- Height: 930 mt.
Exposure: The Primary exposure is EAST, but the sectors are located at all exposures, after 2 pm the walls exposed to NORTH, NORTH EAST go into SHADOW, giving a large space of light to SOUTH-WEST.
Gear: Most of the crags are bolted with FERLE and INOX CHAINS, you can still find FISHER in excellent condition.
PAY ATTENTION TO THE RELEASE SNAP HOOKS, they could be WORN.
Rock: Bismantova a rocky conglomerate of compact sandstone, often smoothed by water, which rises 120 m from the ground; climbing is therefore mainly about balance and technique.
This place can be visited 12 months a year, following or avoiding the sun, with the possibility of exhausting energy on more than 300 existing itineraries.
These are divided into single pitches and long sporty and safe bolted routes.
In the upper part of Bismantova it is advisable to climb TopRope (i.e. using the rope from above, but not on weekends, where there are many other climbers below) as these routes are not particularly popular, on the edges, due to atmospheric agents, there are they are very unstable stones.
Below, I have roughly entered all sectors of Boulder that are in the woods. The goal of this guide is to make you want to climb a thousand-year-old sandstone.
However, this work does not exempt you from respecting the safety rules of an activity still considered to be at risk.
And still respect nature, avoid meeting your needs in the woods below the walls, take away your plastic bottles and your waste.
The Pietra di Bismantova breaks the good-natured profile of the middle Emilian Apennines with the visual arrogance of the most famous “stones” in the world, a kind of Ayres Rock transmigrated from the harshness of the Australian desert to one of the most accessible and hospitable lands in Italy. An amazing synthesis that promises emotions and comfort together, a seductive mix for the most diverse categories of tourists and sportsmen.
Destination for quiet families who are content to admire it upside down, as a rock gym it attracts the most daring climbers from all over Italy. Its routes allow climbing of different levels, with techniques and philosophies that suit everyone. The consolidated hospitality of Castelnovo Monti, with its hotels, agritourisms, real estate rentals, quality restaurants, renovated sports facilities, is a guarantee of a pleasant stay, in tune with everyone's tastes and possibilities. Furthermore, the Pietra adds the charm of history and literature, the memory of the Byzantine castle that stood on the top and the verses of Dante who compares it to the mountain of Purgatory. And climbing Purgatory would be like climbing towards Heaven.
Sorry if it is little.
The stone is made up of a sedimentary calcareous rock stratified above a level of marl, all of which originated as a seabed in the Miocene period. The subsequent cracking and fragmentation of the limestone level, followed by erosion, left the currently visible portion of the slab intact, 1 km long, 240 meters wide and 300 meters high compared to the surrounding plain.
N 44.4191º/E 10.4121º
N 44.4175º/E 10.4119º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: Clifford: 122, DanieleP79: 38, pinmc: 21, sig_nessuno: 7, Alex657: 4, lennyp: 3, Fefo: 3, donadona: 2, alex1976: 1, route66: 1,
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Logistic: Each sector can be reached in a maximum of 15 minutes to a minimum of 5 from the Krüez Refuge located above the staircase. For the underlying sectors in the woods the farthest is 10 minutes.
- Update: 19/03/2021
- Reads: 215562
Pietra di Bismantova
|1||Gare Vecchie/VerbumGare Vecchie/Verbum||32||4c/8a+|
|2||Zona GabriZona Gabri||12||5a/7b+|
|4||Gare NuoveGare Nuove||15||5c/8c|
|5||Torrione SirottiTorrione Sirotti||45||5b/7a+|
|6||Pilastro KreuzPilastro Kreuz||2||6c/7a+|
|7||Anfiteatro BassoAnfiteatro Basso||5||6b/7c|
|8||Banana/Nino MarchiBanana/Nino Marchi||28||5a/8b|
|9||Pilone GialloPilone Giallo||23||4a/8b|
|10||Pietra BassaPietra Bassa||11||4c/7b+|
|11||Cocoa - Anfiteatro AltoCocoa - Anfiteatro Alto||18||5b/8a+|
|12||Punto TrigonometricoPunto Trigonometrico||11||5b/7b|
|14||Ferrata Bassa/PornografieFerrata Bassa/Pornografie||11||5a/6c|
|16||Sasso Batman/Ragazzine VizioseSasso Batman/Ragazzine Viziose||8||5a/6c+|
|17||SASSO PALESTRA DEI REGGIANISASSO PALESTRA DEI REGGIANI||14||2a/5b|
|18||SASSO DIAMANTESASSO DIAMANTE||29||4a/7c|