Sasso della Mantesca
The Sasso della Mantesca (... or Maltesca) is an agglomeration of large allochthonous blocks of metamorphic rocks. As an aspect it recalls lithotypes of an intrusive nature. Hard to the touch but, in some places, not very cohesive. Geologically, it is part of the ophiolites (from the Greek ofios serpente), rocks that, from time immemorial, were associated with emanations of a diabolical nature (... like the nearby Sasso di San Zenobi).
- Section: toscana
Access: Coming from Bologna, you need to take the SP 7 of the Valle dell'Idice. Uphill towards the pass of the Raticosa Pass, past the towns of Monterenzio, Bisano and San Benedetto del Querceto, you arrive at Palazza. Leaving La Palazza Restaurant on the right, you will come to a junction (on the left) with indications for La Martina (via Casoni di Romagna). The junction is recognizable by the signs to the homonymous campsite and by some garbage bins (44.221013,11.352296).
Go up to the above mentioned location. After passing the village, after a few hairpin bends, you come to a wide clearing placed on the ridge between the Valle dell'Idice and that of the Sillaro. The entire route described so far is paved. Here you can leave the vehicles and walk for about 1.2 km. The forest road that is covered is also marked with the CAI 801 signpost. It is the well-known Flaminia Minor route that from Oia to Emilia reaches from the pass with Tuscany. In about 20 minutes you can see on the right the large blocks that protrude from a thick wooded spot. Near a passage between the brambles is accessed, following the tracks, at the base of the various blocks.
- Crag: Sasso della Mantesca
- N. Routes: 24
- Level: 3c+/6c
- Height: 829 mt.
Exposure: The different exhibitions allow to find suitable sectors in almost all seasons. Even on hot days, the often present wind and the coolness of the "entrance hall", "the cellar" and "the secret" sectors will be very pleasant.
If you are looking for some sun, "balcony", "closet" and "garage" are the best areas.
Gear: Excellent in bolts INOX M8 / M10. Several routes offer an open type stop (Austrianalpin). It is a safe system (CE mark) with very low risk of degradation. On some routes they have been driven in tandem, so as to be able to use both anchors for the descent.
Rock: Serpentine type ophiolite. Mostly, the blocks are made up of very coarse grain cages, particularly interesting for the accessory minerals present. Sometimes rich in lichens (... which identify the high level of air quality!) Which can be slippery if wet. Some routes have rocky crusts that "sound" empty; they are not always treacherous ... but do not blindly trust them!
N 44.2202º/E 11.3983º
N 44.2104º/E 11.3883º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: NONNOMERDO: 106, manu: 7, Urubko: 2,
Biblio: Recently, a paper guide was written dedicated to the area called "Raticosa Climbing". The small compendium was dedicated to the sites located near the homonymous Apennine pass (Rocca di Cavrenno / Rocchino / Sasso Mantesca). It seems to be already exhausted but, probably, it will be reprinted in the future with the due integration regarding the new developments that followed. Stay tuned !!!
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Logistic: DO NOT RECOMMEND reducing the approach by using the ridge forest road. Very often it is muddy and there are pools of considerable size. Furthermore, some points are particularly problematic given the presence of protruding stones. Finally, there is NO real parking nearby, so start with the idea of a comfortable walk. A lithological complex of this kind represents, in our territory, a rarity to be preserved. In the past it was widely used to produce road gravel and lithic material for the construction of millstones (... in some points still roughly not completely finished are shown!). When it was explored, with the intention of evaluating its vertical potential, some routes were discovered that were already in place and were later secured and re-valued. THE utmost discretion is RECOMMENDED. There are no fountains in the area.
- Update: 08/09/2019
- Reads: 54242