Rocchino di Cavrenno

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Panoramica dal sentiero d'accesso. - A. Righetti Panoramica dal sentiero d'accesso.
A. Righetti
www.progressoverticale.bo.it





  • Near the Raticosa pass, on the border between Emilia Romagna and Tuscany, the Rocchino cliff (Rocca di Cavrenno) is an unusual spur of geologically very rare limestone in the Apennines. Divided into three climbing sectors, this rock tooth is particularly noticeable on torrid summer days; thanks to the wind that here often blows from Tuscany. The rock, unfortunately, is not always very compact, and therefore it is advisable to use the helmet. Recently, some logistics maintenance and re-equipment have been carried out. Also valued two new sectors until recently virgin. Other projects are planned. For practical reasons of readjustment the route lists are currently on stand-by. In any case, at the base of the routes, you will often find the general indications on the itinerary.
  • Access: The Apennine pass of the Passo della Raticosa can be easily reached from both the Tuscan and the Emilia side. Reference should be made to the director of the SS. 65 "of the Futa". Reached the Raticosa descend in the direction of Monterenzio. After about 1 Km. You will see on the left the signs to Cavrenno (paved road). Park "with care" (NOT on the adjacent field!) On the right of the roadway and take a clear path up to the saddle between the Rocchino and another rocky rock. Less recommended, but sometimes enjoyable, the winter due to the altitude (880 meters) and the wind. In summer, however, the place is really nice! The itineraries on all the sides help to find the most suitable exposure.
  • Crag: Rocchino di Cavrenno
  • N. Routes: 44
  • Level: 2b/8a
  • Height: 880 mt.
  • Beauty:
  • Exposure: East, South and West
  • Gear: The nailing is still a bit 'heterogeneous! There are still rock nails that date back to the 50s! There are, however, several routes with 10 mm stainless steel plugs (often quite close together!) And some streets equipped with chemical fixes. Possibility to access the summit, taking advantage of the easy "normal" way (II), to take advantage of the anchors placed to use the moulinette (useful some extension fettuccie!).
  • Rock: Limestone allocate of Limestone to Calpionelle (fossils) with numerous clayey veins. In some places, the rock appears a little metamorphosed due to the fact that it is in contact with rocks of metamorphic magmatic origin (ophiolites).
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.1914º/E 11.3500º
  • Latitude/Longitude
    N 44.1895º/E 11.3516º
  • Coordinates Precision:
  •  Mainteners / Best Wikiers: NONNOMERDO: 84, manu: 3, Climb0n3: 1,
  • Biblio: GUIDE TO THE ROCK CLOTHES AND ICE OF THE BOLOGNESE APENNINES - Maurizio Marsigli Ed. By the Mountain Association UISP / Corvacci Group (unavailable!). SPORTS AND MODERN ARRAMPICATES IN TUSCANY AND ELBA ISLAND - F. LENZI - Ed. Versante Sud, Milan 1988.
  • Links:
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  • Logistic: Pay special attention to parking. The road leads to a small village and therefore MUST be left usable. Next to it there are private properties that can not tolerate abuses. The path leading to the saddle is marked CAI and therefore passable quite comfortably.
  • Update: 27/10/2017
  • Reads: 28913

Area Gallery


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Indicazioni "on the rocks" dei varii settori. - Andrea Righetti Indicazioni "on the rocks" dei varii settori.
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Sectors (Routes)

N. Name Routes Grade
1 CubaCuba 24 3c/6b
2 Parete EstParete Est 5 5b/6b
3 Parete Ovest/La Spalla (Sella)Parete Ovest/La Spalla (Sella) 9 2b/6b
4 Pilastro nascostoPilastro nascosto 6 6b/8a
N. Name Length Level

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