Gaeta - Montagna Spaccata
The Gaeta's Montagna Spaccata (Cracked Mountain) is probably a uniqueness crag, even if describe it as a simple crag wouldn't be correct.
There are only multi pitch routes and some of them aren't equipped with fixes and bolts.
Firstly you MUST to rappel in order to reach the base of the crag, then you can start to climb, an alternative way to reach the base could be to have a boat at your disposal.
From 2003 to 2005 new routes has been discovered, climbed and equipped in a section of the crag between the Via dei Camini and the Grotta del Turco.
This sector has been called Beatrice's sector from the homonymous route that,
with limited difficulty (5b-5c max), climbs up obliquely the whole sector, presenting a very charming view allround.
In this sector there were 2 routes by Diego Daiia Rosa, equipped at the end of the 70's, Via del Beniamino and Via dei Somari, unfortunately, these routes are fallen into oblivion and, practically no more climbed since then.
Via del Beniamino has been re-equipped and a new traverse that, starting from the Grotta del Turco and joined with one of the actual routes, can reach 4 hundreds meters in length.
All New and Classical routes have been re-equipped by the Scuola di Alpinismo e Arrampicata Libera Paolo Consiglio from CAI section of Rome.
It is allowed to climb only the routes along the rocky spur of the crag on the left of the Grotta del Turco and, from August 1st to February 20th;
furthermore, isn't allowed trekking outside the marked tracks .
- Section: lazio
Access: Three miles away from the Crags of Sperlonga (see access to Sperlonga), along the Via Flacca, turn right at a signpost displaying Serapo Beach and follow the littoral, a hundred metres beyond a wide left bend, turn right uphill to the famous Grotta del Turco and, if you are lucky, you can park the car on a small public parking area under the pine trees.
Walk to the Sanctuary, pass through the gate, wich will be opened till 7:00 pm and turn left;
You will see the access to the Grotta del Turco and at his right, another gate; pass through this gate and follow the path which leads to the summit of the Montagna Spaccata, and after 5 hairpin bends, turn right at a track upslope which begins over a gap in the low wall and in a few minutes you'll reach the point equipped with bolts and chains to rappelling (Abseil);
There are belay stations with bolts and chains every 25-30 metres.
- Crag: Gaeta - Montagna Spaccata
- N. Routes: 47
- Level: 4a/7c
- Height: 20 mt.
Exposure: South, South-West, very hot on summer
Gear: Very good, with resin tapped fixes.
The interval between bolts on the right-side routes is longer than the other one's
Rock: Beautiful and sharpened limestone.
Varying climb on dihedrals, face vertical walls, overhangs and chimneys
N 41.2048º/E 13.5720º
N 41.2067º/E 13.5716º
- Coordinates Precision:
- Mainteners / Best Wikiers: lennyp: 13, kluge: 8, jflang: 1,
Logistic: General Information about climbing in Gaeta and Sperlonga: Stadler-Markus
- Update: 16/10/2017
- Reads: 173364