Gli amici di buricchio - Penna di Lucchio
Beautiful air way and not to be underestimated, even if we are in the crag the characteristics are of a classical mountain road and not all the stones (especially on the edges) are steady, so do a little 'attention. The name, "Friends of Buricchio" is a small group of scalcinati Pesciatini lovers of the mountain in all its forms (mountaineering, skiing, mtb, etc.) that is punctually found for departures in an old garage that was once a pool of wine (a neighborhood tavern) called Buricchio, hence the name.
Access is from the trail that leads from Croce to Veglia to the village of Lucchio (the same that leads to the Penna di Lucchio cliffs), 200 meters after the junction for direct to the Penna, leave the main path and climb to left in the direction of the walls following the pebbles of stones until you can see up on the left a beautiful plate with a small roof halfway closed on the sides by two rock structures that make it look like an amphitheater. The attack is for an obvious dihedral that gurarda towards the Totem sector at about 100-150mt from the latter. You climb the dihedral along its entire length with easy steps (V) and you arrive on a nice terrace where you stop. From here you can attach the beautiful plate above with a short but delicate cross to the left (VI) going to take a showy crack that goes up the pillar along the edge, follow it until it ends at the edge and from there with a very delicate cross towards the right (VII) you go to take another crack that goes up the center of the pillar up to its summit, on which is located the ledge where it stops. The following shot is an easy and relaxing ridge with passages of (III-IV) that leads to the end plate where it stops at the base of an obvious plinth. You can easily climb the plinth (IV) and go to take the plate to its right margin, following the beautiful and aerial fissures (VI) that lead up to the ridge, the stop is a few meters from the path that climbs to the summit of the Penna. Drop in via using the same stops with a single rope of at least 60 meters. I do not know how to send you the photos here so I'll post them directly, get them there.
Drop directly into the rope with at least 60, preferably with 2 half-strings to make less falls or you can get off the ridge trail that in 15 min leads to the junction for Lucchio.
- Crag: Penna di Lucchio
- Level: S1 diff. VII obbligatorio
- Open Date:
Gear: All bolted to fix of 10
Type: The road has a purely mountain character even if all bolted to fix the 10 and the development is not entirely vertical because it follows a series of cracks and crests to give it its logic.
- Update: 03/05/2012
- Reads: 25553
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|Gr. Note: Primo tiro con 2 possibilità di attacco, lo spigolo con passaggi di IV/IV+ oppure il diedro con passaggi di V/V+,|
|Gr. Note: Si svolge lungo una bellissima fessura verticale al centro del pilastro.|
|Gr. Note: Comodo trasferimento lungo lo spigolo con qualche banale passaggino di IV giusto per ricordarci che la via non è ancora finita.|
|Gr. Note: Placca leggermente strapiombante utilizzandone però il bordo destro solcato da delle generose fessure ottime anche per impratichirsi con le protezioni veloci. La difficoltà è un tranquillo e soddisfacente VI con uscita sul sentiero di cresta che porta in vetta alla Penna e presto anche quet'ultimo tiro avrà una sua variante più ostica.|